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Re: Burned Block

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JMS/MN

04-14-2002 21:48:45




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I've always been told, if the radiator did not melt, the block should be ok, although every seal, rubber part, etc. would have to be replaced. On an overhaul, you'd do that anyway. Good luck.




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Brad Gyde

04-15-2002 20:44:17




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 Re: Re: Burned Block in reply to JMS/MN, 04-14-2002 21:48:45  
I did decide to re use the block. My neighbor used to run a IH dealership in our neighborhood, but closed up and now does repair in his shop. His dad is 85, and tells me that they used to put blocks into a fire to free them up. (and at 85, he still works on tractors... every day just like most of us younger fellas go to work) He also said if there wasn't no damage done to the valve covers or oil pan, it is probably not damaged.

I pulled the oil pan (And broke all but about 5 of the bolts off) and it was really clean. No melted bearings.. But there is a new problem.... I can't seem to get the cam out. The lifters are rusted in place.. any of you have a trick for me there??

I also believe that the rubber o seals DID NOT melt, as penetrating oil does not seem to seep down along the sleeves

I appreciate all of your help this far,

Thanks,

Brad

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Don, Luling LA

04-19-2002 07:53:46




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 Re: Re: Re: Burned Block in reply to Brad Gyde, 04-15-2002 20:44:17  
I have had stuck lifters before. If you can turn the engine over you can most likely free them. Put some penetrating oil on the lifters as good as you can. Try to tap the rocker arms so that the lifters will be driven back into their bore on all of the valves that aren't being driven open by the cam. Turn the engine over a little and tap some more on the other valves. Continue to do this until all of the valves begin to close on their own. Once you get them working on their own, if you can turn the engine over with a battery and starter you can pull the plugs, probably already done and just let it turn over like that, watch you don't overheat the starter. If you already have the head pulled you can just drive the lifters down with a wooden dowel or something like that as you turn the engine over, but will be a much slower process. This will help loosen them up pretty good. You may still have to contend with the part of the lifter at the bottom that doesn't go into the bore. There is a tool you can get that grabs in inside of the lifter to help you pull them, have seen it for the hydralic type where you have an inside snap ring groove cut on the inside of the lifter. Don't know how your lifters look to know of you can use this tool though.
Good luck

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