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Yet another WD45 hydraulic question

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new2orange

04-19-2001 23:47:16




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I have a slightly annoying problem with the stock hyd. setup on my wd45. Seems the lever wants to "creep" and allow the 3 pt. to slowly run all the way up. Worse yet, when you try to get the hyd. to hold, it either drops the whole thing, or starts lifting slowly, way to touchy you have to fiddle with it to get it to stay holding, then it creeps up..... you get the idea. I rebuilt the pump completly with all new stuff to the ITT manual specs, Have I got an adjustment wrong?

Also, when I finally get the Hyd working right, I would like to set it up for double acting to run a bucket loader, any easy way to do this?

thanks in advance J Stephens.

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frankie

11-29-2002 17:49:34




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 Re: Yet another WD45 hydraulic question in reply to new2orange, 04-19-2001 23:47:16  
spring missing



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Dave Grubb

04-20-2001 08:40:29




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 Re: Yet another WD45 hydraulic question in reply to new2orange, 04-19-2001 23:47:16  
I have a posting on this site from about a year ago concernig this. It has worked for me. Basically there can be no leakage at the hold valve, the linkage must be rigged per the manual, there must be about .010-.015" clearance between the hold valve plunger and its actuating cam when the valve lever is at the hold position. I gave more details in my past posting, it may help you to read it also. I am putting a 4way hydraulic valve on my WD45 to enable me to use modern low pressure cylinders in a two direction application. Basically you plug in a 4way valve into the remote outlet on your tractor, if you have one. If you don't have a remote outlet you should put one on first, it's a handy addition. You plumb a return line in to the drain plug hole for the hydraulic pump system. You may have to increase the hydraulic reservoir capacity for you use. This is best done by teeing a separate reservoir into the drain plug of current hydraulic reservoir along with the 4way valve return line. You can get this valve from Mikes by clicking on 'parts' at the top of this page. This valve and style was an optional setup for the D series, except the D17IV. Also this valve has an internal pressure reducing feature so you won't blow a cylinder or hoses and fittings designed for 2000psi. Hope this helps.

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Dave Grubb

04-20-2001 08:40:21




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 Re: Yet another WD45 hydraulic question in reply to new2orange, 04-19-2001 23:47:16  
I have a posting on this site from about a year ago concernig this. It has worked for me. Basically there can be no leakage at the hold valve, the linkage must be rigged per the manual, there must be about .010-.015" clearance between the hold valve plunger and its actuating cam when the valve lever is at the hold position. I gave more details in my past posting, it may help you to read it also. I am putting a 4way hydraulic valve on my WD45 to enable me to use modern low pressure cylinders in a two direction application. Basically you plug in a 4way valve into the remote outlet on your tractor, if you have one. If you don't have a remote outlet you should put one on first, it's a handy addition. You plumb a return line in to the drain plug hole for the hydraulic pump system. You may have to increase the hydraulic reservoir capacity for you use. This is best done by teeing a separate reservoir into the drain plug of current hydraulic reservoir along with the 4way valve return line. You can get this valve from Mikes by clicking on 'parts' at the top of this page. This valve and style was an optional setup for the D series, except the D17IV. Also this valve has an internal pressure reducing feature so you won't blow a cylinder or hoses and fittings designed for 2000psi. Hope this helps.

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David T (MO)

04-20-2001 07:38:54




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 Re: Yet another WD45 hydraulic question in reply to new2orange, 04-19-2001 23:47:16  
Mine had the same "problem" when I got it. The previous owner had wire-tied the control down. Turned out that that the pump wasn't setup for the right job.

The pump can be set for all sorts of jobs so be sure that it is set up correctly for the job you need to do. There should be a decal on the battery box just above the pump that shows you how to set the pump up. The pump has four manual adjustment knobs. The most commonly used set up for me is the hold position setting. The lowest knob on the side of the pump is the drawbar adjustment ("A"). It is used for pulling plows and the like and gives traction control. Turn this knob all the way into the body detent locking the plate into position. (If you have a linkage to the drawbar you may want to remove it.) The second knob is on top of the pump on the side linkages. This is the hold position adjustment ("B"). Turn it so that it locks the two plates together, allowing them to move as one. The third knob is also on top but on the front of the pump's hold position valve. This controls the delay lift ("C"). Turn it all the way out until it hits its stop. The last knob is on the front of the pump about half way down. It controls the rate of lift ("D"). Turning it all the way out gives you fast lift. All the way in is slow lift. (I have mine set about halfway.)

Once you have the pump setup for the job you want to do, you need to adjust the linkages. (I'm going on memory here so hopefully someone will check me on this.) First with the tractor off move the lift control to the full up position. There is an adjustment just under the gas tank on the large linkage to the hydraulic pump. Loosen this and push the linkage down to take all the play out of the pump and retighten. Move the control back to the down position. Turn the second knob I mentioned above (the hold position knob "B") into the detent in the body of the pump separating the two plates and locking the inner plate to the pump. Now start the tractor and raise the lift to max height and shut the tractor off with the control still in max lift. Stand on the lift arms and slowly lower the lift control until the pump releases completely. (This should be about halfway down the quadrant.) Now, being careful to not move the position of the control, go back to the outer plate and loosen the smaller linkage adjust (which is on the outer plate) so the plate moves easily but be careful not to move the rod. Rotate the outer plate so that you can turn control "B" back out of the pump again locking the inner and outer plates together. Being careful to not move the control linkages, rotate the plates counter-clockwise until you feel them click into a detent and retighten the small linkage adjustment.

You may have to tweak it here and there depending on how worn your linkages are and I don't recall the adjustments for the traction boost linkage down to the drawbar (and don't use them anyway as mine doesn't have the linkage) but that should cure your creep problem. The control may still creep up from full down to the detent but the lift will stay down. (I normally keep the control at the detent anyway.)

Hope this helps.

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