Free at last

Pat80flh

Member
I got the 1939 B engine to move a little finally, head off, soaking it for near a month. Started a couple of fires in the holes. My 3" snapon pry bar would just flex. I pulled off the radiator so I could access the front of the engine. As it happened, my contractor is ripping up the dining room floor, and left a 10" spud bar, I could barely fit it in the slot, but I got the engine to rotate about 30 degrees, before I ran out of throw on the bar.
The hand crank or pry bar still aren't enough to move it, so I need some kind of tool to put some torque on the crank pulley. I'd love to have a way to turn the crank back and forth, but can't find a good way to achieve this. Hand crank only, no electric start. Strap wrench or chain wrench maybe? Manual should be here in a couple of days, from what I see the pulley must be pressed on.
I used some AeroKroil on it Saturday, I don't know if that is what did it, stuff is pricey. I gave the rest to the Farmall next to us.
 
you dont continue pulling in the same direction to free it up. once you have a sweet spot then keep going back and forth increasing each
movement a little at a time. then it will gradually make the complete revolution. jack up one rear tire and put it in high gear and keep
rotating the tire back and forth is another way. and keep cleaning the rust from cylinders at the same time. and relubing them. also a good
idea to hone the rust out first. then once free you can pull the pistons and do your inspection and clean up.
 
Big problem is when you have the head off as you turn it the sleeves can and sometimes will come up so then you have a sleeve seal problem to deal with. Guess How I know that. The 4 Cs I have all where stuck when I got them and I did use a pipe wrench on the hand crank to make them turn. If later you need to take out the crank shaft hand crank nut an impact driver works just fine also BTDT
 
A chain wrench will work but do not tighten it in the v of the pulley, you risk cracking the pulley. As suggested jack up one wheel and try to rock it, if you have a way to attach a long board, pipe or post to the wheel or axle to increase your leverage all the better. You could also hang some weight from the crank handle and start giving the pistons some hits with a block and hammer. Another option that may work is if your B has a belt pulley you could put a chain wrench or large socket wrench on it and try to rock the engine that way. Just keep at it, continue to clean, heat and soak the cylinders. You should be able to see slow but steady progress.
 
I'm with Old. You keep doing that with the head off and the sleeves are gonna get rolled out of the block. Then you'll be where you just as well started and be doing a complete engine tear down.
AaronSEIA
 
it makes no difference as how do you know how pitted the sleeves are. they probably need to come out and should come out just to replace the
o rings anyhow. that a minor detail, ooh i forgot old is god to some. and if you dont wantt he sleeves to come out just use a washer or plate
so they stay in, its that simple. did you think this engine would just need the head put back on???
 

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