Grabatire

Member
My 1975 7060 has a habit of not wanting to come out of first and reverse in both low or high range unless I stop the engine.
Gets a bit better when warmed up. Acts like the clutch isn't releasing but it's OK in all the other gears.
 
(quoted from post at 16:37:49 01/01/23) My 1975 7060 has a habit of not wanting to come out of first and reverse in both low or high range unless I stop the engine.
Gets a bit better when warmed up. Acts like the clutch isn't releasing but it's OK in all the other gears.
When you push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, you are applying the transmission brake. So, if the tractor is pointed uphill or downhill the weight of the tractor is putting pressure on the shift collars not allowing you to easily shift to neutral. Cold oil aggrivates this scenario. Quit putting the clutch pedal clear down...stay up a couple of inches. Better yet, shift to neutral before the tractor quits rolling to a stop.
 
Dr. Allis, I find that shifting out of gear just before the tractor stops works great, but I then need to stop the engine so I can shift into another gear. The transmission brake may not be working because while keeping the clutch depressed, I shut the engine off, but need to shift into the next gear before starting the engine otherwise it won't go into the next gear without grinding. Although it does this in both ranges, it isn't quite as bad in high range. I have a I&T Service manual but it doesn't seem to address the issue. Maybe I'm just not reading it carefull enough.
 
(quoted from post at 19:54:17 01/01/23) Dr. Allis, I find that shifting out of gear just before the tractor stops works great, but I then need to stop the engine so I can shift into another gear. The transmission brake may not be working because while keeping the clutch depressed, I shut the engine off, but need to shift into the next gear before starting the engine otherwise it won't go into the next gear without grinding. Although it does this in both ranges, it isn't quite as bad in high range. I have a I&T Service manual but it doesn't seem to address the issue. Maybe I'm just not reading it carefull enough.
............OK. So now you've given me a completely different description of the problem. YES, your transmission brake isn't working, which is fairly common on 40 year old models. The problem USUALLY is because the clutch pedal (engine OFF) has some free-play in the pedal, which then sees to it you never get to the brake zone at the bottom of the pedals stroke. If there is ANY free-play, it has to be zero free-play with the engine OFF. Remove the side panel at the bottom of the clutch pedal area, after peeling the floor mat back a little. There is a slotted cable adjustment there to tske up free-play. There is also a fork that the cable attaches to. The fork has two brass bushings that it pivots on. These brass bushings are often times broken and worn out. FIX THIS FIRST and then adjust the cable length. It takes 180 to 200 PSI on the brake oil circuit for the brake to work when the pedal is completely down to the floor.
 
OK thanks DrAllis. The weather is supposed to be near zero degrees C here soon so I'll give that a go. Gotta work outside.
 

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