Stuck carb float? And for sale...

WiOrange

New User
Have a '54 to '57 WD-45 wide front-end. When last running the throttle link slipped. Fixed it and maybe adjusted to feed more fuel. That winter went to start it. Both times gas ran from the carb and never came close to starting. Friend that's an Allis guy said it sounds like a stuck float. How to unstick it then? Remove carb completely and spray with cleaner or pull fuel line then spray into it from that portal?

Want to get it running then sell it. Need to do something with it before sending it along.

There's no axle serial number. Would year ID be possible from the engine serial? There looks to be a non-working factory power steering unit. Also seems to have D-17 fenders. Did any 45's come with D-17 fenders? There's a Yardman/ Bush Hog loader with a 7' (1/4 steel) bucket.

The 45 was strictly utilitarian use. Things are a bit cobbled. Mismatched rear tires. Now has electric switch start maybe with a D-17 starter. Engine's in decent shape.

In the Dane County/ Madison, Wi area.


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Time to pull the carb and have a look see inside. Could be an easy fix or if by chance it got water in the carb the float it self may need to be replaced
 
The engine serial number is WD 345057 PA. Do tables exits for engine serial#'s?

In the classic serial# area only seem to have a 20(xxxx) in the left most position of the 6 digits which would likely make it a 1955.

Also found a serial# on the transmission directly below the battery box. Pic provided.


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Your engine s/n is a WD engine block anyway. A true WD-45 engine serial number is 45-XXXXX. The chassis serial number is STAMPED, not raised numbers. It is located just above the lift arm shaft on the left side just above the square headed bolt. It will say WD-XXXXX. D-17 fenders were never available on a WD-series tractor.
 

Your picture is of a casting number. Casting numbers are raised and made during the component casting process at the foundry. That number will be found on all the transmission castings the same as that one. Serial numbers were stamped into components, using steel punch stamps, during after machining and during assembly.
 
When the carburetor float rises, as when fuel enters the bowl, it seats the needle valve causing fuel flow to stop. If the needle valve sticks closed no fuel can come into the carb. You probably already know that. One way that usually works to analyze this is to have someone start the tractor while someone else taps on the side of the carburetor with something like a small ball-peen hammer. If this works, you have identified the problem as a sticky needle valve. Simple solution is to replace the needle valve.
 
Semi-long story. Bro-in-law had a cabin near an Iowa Allis dealer. Asked him to pickup a starter for me. The one he brought back was different than the one I pulled out. It's connections made it relatively easy to wire in a toggle switch for starting... rather than the pull starter that kept burning the cheap solid copper contact off. This starter fit much tighter than the bad one. Like 1/128 or certainly far less than 1/32. The super tight fit made me think maybe a D17 starter.

A cousin told me later the starter burnt away copper issue is solved with a bead of weld in it's place.
 
Thanks Bill- didn't really know that. Not much of a mechanic and know about carbs. There's no chance it'd start unless pull started.

So I'll be pulling the carb...
 
Make sure the float doesn't have any dents and when you shake it it doesn't rattle. If it does/has either it needs to be replaced. Rattles means it has a leak and has gas inside the float dented mean the carb had water in it at one time and froze
 
I just googled ''how to overhaul an Allis Chalmers carburetor'' and a lot of stuff came up including a video of a pretty young girl doing it. Sorry, I'm not able to post a link but if you don't know anything about carburetors I recommend you take a look at what is available online.
 
If you have an O'Reilly's auto parts store in your area they sell the Walker brand carb kits and they include a pretty good instruction sheet in the kit. Cost is around $25 for the kit but worth it
 
Tried the lazy way first. Pulled fuel line and sprayed carb cleaner & electronic cleaner into the portal. Let it sit for 45 minutes. Started right up... maybe not right up but followed its usual ignition pattern toward the motor running.

Thanks for the things to watch for Old & Bill.

Any suggestions for a low mess coolant change?
 
All depends on what type of drain you have on it. I have some that you can hook a hose to so in turn low mess
 
The very first thing I always do when one that's been sitting a while wants to run gas out the intake is take my Wildes out of my hip pocket and whack the side of the bowl/reservoir/etc a couple times. That often fixes the problem, but when it doesn't, the expense involved is tolerable. ;-) gm
 

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