A question about a CA engine identification

beesbo

New User
I am a newbie to restoring tractors and bought an Allis Chalmers CA pretty cheap. I would like to rebuild the engine, had a stuck piston, but not 100% sure what engine it has. The block has a casting AM 2916 35. Saw a chart on what year the block was made but it stopped at 30. Transmission stamp says CA 12562; should make it a 1952?
Can anybody help me determine what engine I have so I can get the correct parts? I'm not planning a show tractor so I'm not a stickler for the exact parts, but I would like to be sure I get the higher compression pistons.
Thanks in advance.
 
If you got it freed up it may be OK. These are not high speed engines and for the HP they put out not highly stressed. You can get away with a lot sometimes. If you can
turn it over by hand/crank you might consider trying to get it running and see what you have. Then make a decision as to how to proceed with it. When you change the
transmission oil also do the final drives. You need to remove the pan under each one to do it and it is often overlooked and there may be nasty stuff in them. Also if the
tractor sees any rain keep a good boot on the shift lever. Water will go down the shift lever if you don't. They are a nice tractor, worth some effort.
 
Between all the B's and C's and CA's there are two engine displacements, 115 cube and 125 cubes. Without spending the time to look it up, I believe the CA is 125 cubes AND higher compression than the other two from the factory. RPM's are definitely faster. I'm sure many B and C engines got overhauled with CA pistons/sleeves to increase their HP and the parts just drop right in.
 
At least, for my tractors, the following differences:

In the early years, the B engine has the serial number stamped on the back of the block.

The CA is identified by the pad on the block that could be machined out for the use of a mechanical
fuel pump in the industrial applications.
 
So I found another number on the block. It is on the back flange .
CE161573PA.
I understand the CE ###### is serial number but what does the PA signify?
And thanks to everybody that commented. I think this rebuild is gonna be fun.
 
I'd pull all the sleeves out and install new o-rings if your going to reuse the old sleeves or you are likely to have to do it later due to leaking o-rings
 
I think I'll have to replace all of the sleeves and pistons. I was able to remove the sleeve with the stuck piston still in it. It is really bad, must have been full of water for many years. The head on that cylinder is also pretty rusted. One other sleeve is also rusted kinda deep. The piston pushed out but would take quite a bit to make it usable again and then the piston would flop around in there. I think I'll do it right and replace them all. Maybe somebody here could use the two remaining sleeves that are usable. The three pistons might be usable too. I will need to keep the rods.
Thanks for the help. I'm sure I will be pestering you folks more as this project proceeds.
 
If I remember right this site has a sleeve/piston/ring set that is an over bore which gives you a couple more HP. The very first tractor engine I ever over hauled was a hand start B and I was 18 or 19 when I did that and was home on leave from the Navy at the tie
 
OK so the size of my engine is 125.
But the HP is a few higher that previous 125's. Where did they get the extra HP? I know the compression was raised to 6.2 CR. How did they get the extra CR...Heads? Pistons? Rods? Or something else? Bore and Stroke should be the same.
Any info on this topic would be appreciated.
 
(quoted from post at 12:10:42 07/01/22) OK so the size of my engine is 125.
But the HP is a few higher that previous 125's. Where did they get the extra HP? I know the compression was raised to 6.2 CR. How did they get the extra CR...Heads? Pistons? Rods? Or something else? Bore and Stroke should be the same.
Any info on this topic would be appreciated.
More compression, more RPM's and probably a larger venturi in the carb all add up to more HP !!!!
 

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