Unless it has ''Live power''instead of the hand clutch hi-lo live power, I hope you have a kicker on the baler to push the bale
away from the chamber. If not, you'll have to stop the baler when you shift to reverse to back up. The other issue is with shutting
the baler off and restarting it on the headlands. You'll have to stop the tractor to do it. In my book, they're less than ideal for
running a round baler.
 
Everything rrlund says is correct, though there are
ways around the frustrations of the Allis hand-
clutch live power. I've baled a lot with a 185. When
the baler starts its tie cycle, I don't stop the
tractor moving, just quickly pull out of the windrow
without stopping and make a small circle while it's
tying. Once you get good at it, you can time it so
your tie cycle will be done right when you're about
10' back from where you stopped baling (same spot
you'd back up to). Then stop everything with the
clutch, dump the bale, drive forward a bit to close
gate & tension belts and start going again. You're
not losing any more time than you would backing up
and sitting there while it ties, and it saves you a
couple of gear shifts as well - you never have to
shift out of gear. Your belts will slip for a second
or two while you're driving forward to clear the
bale, but the belts are loose at this point and it's
such a small amount of time you're not going to hurt
anything (possibly baler dependent).

Downsides to this method are driving over a little
more field (if you're worried about compaction), and
needing a large enough area to drive in a small
circle without picking up hay while it's tying. A
bit of a pain when doing the outside windrow, but
fine after that.

I often do this will all my baling tractors - not
just the Allis. Our fields are so hilly that very
seldom can you dump a bale near where it finishes,
so I just pull out of the windrow and keep on
driving between the windrows as it ties - as long as
you're not picking up hay while it's tying you're
not hurting anything.

Usually it's just about finished tying by the time I
reach a spot that's flat enough to dump the bale. I
dump it, then drive back to the windrow as I'm
closing the gate, tensioning the belts, and starting
the PTO.

You get pretty good at timing it so everything's
just ready to go when pulling back into the windrow,
so you're not really wasting any more time than you
would backing up and sitting there unmoving while it
ties, closes the gate, etc. Depending on the tractor
it does require some pretty good hand coordination
driving while operating the hydraulics and PTO
without stopping - you get pretty good at steering
with your knees.
 
So Dan,you think with a little practice the 190 would be a good tractor for my vermeer 4 by 5 baler with elec.tie.My 7040 is down for repair and I needed to pick up another tractor soon. The 190 was a very reasonable price and from a reputable dealer.I only bale 100 - 150 bales a year,but plan on expanding. With some of the negative reviews ,I was second guessing myself. Thanks
 
If it has the PTO that engages hydaulically it'll work good,but if you have to mechanically engage the PTO with the lever under the seat it'll get real tiresome real quick.
 
The deal has been made. Unfortunately there is no live power. The hi low lever on the right will be slipped into neutral when the bale is ready to be ejected. I know there will be a learning curve,but if i'm very careful at first I should get the routine down.You have to work with what you have.Wish me luck.
 
Good luck. I always like driving a 190, just liked the feel, I just wouldn't want to round bale with one day in and day out.
 
For 150 bales a year I think you'll get used to
it. Might be some cussing involved until you get
a system down, but get creative with your order
of operations - you should be fine. 190 is a fun
tractor - as long as your transmission doesn't
have the notorious 3rd gear issues you'll love
it.

But definitely check the tranny out before you
buy (if not too late). If you're not sure what
I'm talking about, do some searching on this
forum for Allis 3rd gear issues - you'll get a
pile of results. To test, drive it in third gear
down a hill, or if you don't have a hill, drive
in third gear with the governor opened up fully
and then quickly throttle down while on the move.
You want to see if it pops out of gear while the
transmission/load is pushing back on the engine.
If it does, walk away.
 
We had one. Used it on a Gehl 4x5 round baler. It worked ok once you get used to stopping to tie
the bale with the hand clutch. Size wise and power, it handled the round baler perfectly.
 

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