Allis Chalmers Tractomotive T10

jaoneill

Member
I went to look at the above today. Haven't had any luck finding anything in the way of specs. Anyone have any idea what such a beast would weigh? It is three hours away over tortuous mountian roads and hauling would add too much to the cost to be an option. If we can't haul it on our 10K trailer I think I will walk away. If anyone had an idea what AC tractor it was based on that would be a big help. Model on plate (best I can make out) is TL-107, Model is TRACTOLOADER, Serial #1989

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Thanks Bob, I had guestimated the 12K range; that sorta confirms it. I'll check with my hauler, he gets 2.25 loaded mile and its only 100mi but...... Any clues as to where I can begin to look for details on this thing.
 
Not really. My information comes from Norm Swinford's AC Construction & Industrial Machinery, MBI Publishing.
I think it would be a neat machine to have, IF you had a hard surface to use it on.
 
Would taking some of the cast iron off, or taking the loader off, be an alternative for hauling yourself - making
two trips?
 
Good thought but, it's 6 plus hours round trip, spoils a day. Would mean 2 days and a hundred or so in fuel. better to hire it done.
 
If you post this link in your browser you will see the predecessor to this model as well as the 4x4 version. It came from the "W series" of tractors and I bet it weighs under 10 000 lbs, I don't see a very heavy counter weight on it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSoHyJWZ3Q0
 
The predecessor to the TL10 was based on a tractor, as was its' smaller sibling. The TL10 was not. It did use the AC engine.
Apparently Tractomotive and AC had a close relationship all along, until AC took them over.
 
Waited for my hauler guy to grab it on a backhaul, but finally got the old girl home and have had a chance to check it over for it's most obvious needs. Battery and starter cables are on order and after regularly monitoring Ebay since the beginning of August, a complete original manual, including parts, turned up and is now on it's way to me. To use the vernacular, the machine's wiring has been "cobbed" but the basic unit appears to be close to 100% original. Seller indicated that it "knocked" when hot but it runs smooth as silk and for what little we ran it to unload, the bottom end was quiet. Some seepage around hydraulic valves, they probably need rebuilding and linkages may need to be bushed to take some of the slop out. Seller used it with a gas can strapped to the hood and in thinking about it, it sort of made sense. Gas tank is probably 30-40 gallon, overkill for small job, occasional use; one would always be fighting the battle with "dead" gasoline. I may consider installing a 10-12 gallon tank in the vacant space under the existing tank.
 
Good deal. I can't tell from what I can see of the oil filter, which system it is. Somewhere, I think, in the early 60's AC
improved the 226 engine from partial flow to full flow filtration.
 
Interesting; as part of the deal I got a 226 power plant (spare engine) and I noticed the difference in the oil filter setup. Spare in still sitting outside easy to get at, I plan to move it into pole barn storage tomorrow. When I take the pup out for his run in a bit I'll get a pic of each. I'm betting the loader would be the older type, return lines are much smaller. Would they be interchangeable?
 
Engines are interchangeable. The early type has a flat top oil filter which is basically a solid block of material. A stand pipe
from the base sticks up through the center of the filter material. This is necessary to create some resistance. The later type is a
regular full flow, pleated paper type filter. There are bigger lines [3/8] running to and from the filter base.
 
The spare engine has the larger lines, I will definitely swap those out, probably tomorrow before it goes into storage. Thanks for the heads up!
 
Went out to get another look after my last post and was having doubts about parts interchangeability. Are there internal differences?
Actually, the seller had planned to swap engines due to the knock, my thought was to just do an in-chassis on the original.

This post was edited by jaoneill on 10/16/2021 at 04:55 pm.
 
Write this information down, as too many people don't know it. There are TWO "226" engines from Allis-Chalmers. The original was the W-226 which evolved from the W-201. The W-201 came from the WC and WD tractor and the W-226 came from the WD-45 tractor, and was used in a lot of other things as well. The G-226 was the generation two version and was first used in the D-17 tractor. The differences are external and internal but are huge. The G-226 crankshaft has 3 inch diameter main bearings, while the W-226 has 2 1/2" diameter main bearings. So, the BLOCK is different along with the crankshaft. The water pump sticks forward 3 inches farther as does the crankshaft pulley. Flywheels are different (in a tractor)and the later oil filtering system is changed. Many of the parts interchange between the engines, but you've got to know what you're doing in some cases to even do that. Take pistons and sleeves for example. You can install pistons and sleeves from a WD-45 into a D-17 and they will fit. Trouble is, they are lower compression and you'll lose HP. The serial number for the engine is stamped on the block behind the rear of the carburetor where the air cleaner hose would be on a farm tractor. If it is a D-17 engine, it will read 17-XXXXX. If it is the older W-226 it will read 45-XXXXX.
 
I will write this on the inside cover of the manual when it gets here on Wednesday. Numbers of both of my engines begin with 17 so either the seller had done his homework or simply got lucky.....
 
The fact that it appears to be a D-17 engine from its birth, gives an idea to when the chassisb was built. The D-17 was first built in very late 1957, so I'd guess it is a 1958 or 59 model by the old style oil filtering system. The s/n on the old block should be lower than 17-24001.
 
Right you are! Serial number on engine in the TL10 is 17-14918-M.
Serial on the Tracto Loader name plate is #1989. Received the manual late yesterday and it is fascinating reading, it is a complete "Master Parts and Instruction Manual". Will be invaluable, as any shop manual is. I can only surmise that the last two owners (since the original municipal owner) did little other than (maybe) change the engine oil. There are pages of 10hr and 100hr service instructions, much of which are required adjustments w/specifications, that were probably not performed.

Jim
 
Looking at D-17 tractor build numbers, I'd say that engine is a very late 1958 or January 59 for age. So, that probably makes 1959 the time frame for the chassis.
 
Not certain where the seller got his information unless it was from the original owner, a municipality, but he told me that it was a 1959. Certainly fits. BTW, according to the manual, dry shipping weight without the cab is 11,700.
 
Been looking this old girl over as time allows. Has a flat tire on the front 11.00x24.5 so I haven't played with it yet. Finally took the tire off today and think I'll bring it into the tire shop tomorrow. Manual says original fronts were 13x24's, I'm guessing the switch to 24.5 had to do with the cost of loader tires as opposed to used truck tires but; they are what they are and I see that there is a seller on ebay selling 24.5 truck casings with a new tractor tread recap reasonable. I'll just run the truck tires that are on it for now.

Tires on the steering axle both hold air but... Looks as though they are/were 16' split rim (see pics) and one has been completely cobbled up. Any thoughts on what I can replace them with? The screwed up cast wheel can be repaired but I will need new rims. Any thoughts on what might fit?
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Those look to be locking ring rims, or split [u:54691a1ffe]Ring[/u:54691a1ffe] rims, not split rims . Your rim base (the main body) is one solid piece, the lock ring is split so it can pried out of the groove in the base rim it is in (like a snap ring). The so called split rims (widow makers) actually split around the circumference, in the center of the main body so when split the two pieces were nearly equal size. The other type split rim has a split running from the inner end of the valve stem slot to the outer edge of the rim, with a solid one piece locking ring. The rim body has to be collapsed in so one end of the split passes inside the other, to remove the locking ring. Many people have looked at the split line and thought the rim was cracked or broken. The two type split rims are pictured below.

You may need to find a salvage yard with a T10 and see if they have rims, or search out a place that sells or builds specialty rims.

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I probably should have been more specific. What I would like to do is replace the rims with standard one piece rims. I'm thinkng that I will probably need to pull one off and try to match the rim profile. Thought someone may have run into a similar issue.
 
(quoted from post at 21:15:50 10/31/21) I probably should have been more specific. What I would like to do is replace the rims with standard one piece rims. I'm thinkng that I will probably need to pull one off and try to match the rim profile. Thought someone may have run into a similar issue.

Check out a 17.5 open center rim to see if the diameter and profile matches the clamping flange on your 16" rim.
 

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