D-17 sleeve sealant Bush Hog Papa

Beak

Member
Bush Hog Papa, I am wondering if you could list the part number or actual name of the non hardening sealer that you use for sleeves. Do you apply it on the oring area before installing or after? I have had alot of problems with the sleeves. Apparently the bores in the block are out of spec because after I install the sleeves in the block, I get undersized piston bores at the oring area and I have as much as .004 out of round after installing the sleeves. I tried to straighten it out with my over the counter Lisle hone but am now buying a couple new sleeves for round 2 of the battle. The specs for the bore from Reliance was 4.468-4.470 and flange groove depth of .242. My bores are anywhere from .003-.015 larger than those numbers. What do I do now? Im assuming they at least have to be round so as not to influence the sleeve to be out of round? I was expecting the block bores to be undersized. What do I do now? This is my first sleeved engine and it has been a learning experience to say the least. Help!!
 
I have read your comments a few times , has your block been incorrectly bored when new?
If I was in same position I would definitely not be using
O ring sealer I would be contacting a firm here in uk that
specialise in making liners
 
I've never had a problem with Allis sleeves. Heck, I don't even mic the bores, I just slap new sleeves and o-rings in and put the thing back together. Never had a problem.
AaronSEIA
 
Do the sleeves slide in the block easy without the o-rings? If they do and you can wiggle the sleeves in all directions, I would say run them, if the sleeves go in hard or do not wiggle much, I would be trying to fix the block bore as I would be concerned about cutting or rolling an o ring.
 
The sleeves fell right in before I put the orings on. I could spin them too. Im thinking that I at least need to make the bottom bore in the block round again. They are already larger than the specs that the supplier gave me. Im afraid of a possible leak so thats why Im thiinking about extra sealer in the oring area.
 
I suppose they could have been bad from the start. The engine has been rebuilt once before that I know of so its hard to say.
 
Building a 4.75 bore pulling motor I just used.a block sealer that stays kinda soft. Doesn't matter the brand. Pour it in right after you get the sleeves in. So it will be in there a day of two before you put any water in.used two cans. Very little mixed with the water antifreeze. Never used any o-rings. But the sleeves were tight on top and bottom. So its not hard to seal the water in the block.
 
(quoted from post at 13:31:27 07/17/21) Bush Hog Papa, I am wondering if you could list the part number or actual name of the non hardening sealer that you use for sleeves. Do you apply it on the oring area before installing or after?
Nothing on o-rings of wet sleeves other than maybe a little lubricant (I use vegetable shortening - doesn't seem to swell the o-rings)

I have had alot of problems with the sleeves. Apparently the bores in the block are out of spec because after I install the sleeves in the block, I get undersized piston bores at the oring area and I have as much as .004 out of round after installing the sleeves.

What do I do now?
The sleeves fell right in before I put the orings on. I could spin them too. Im thinking that I at least need to make the bottom bore in the block round again......
here could be other reasons happening here, maybe debris / corrosion in the O-Ring grooves ?? Bad sleeves ??
Out of spec, while not impossible, would not be my first choice. Need some [i:5e6b3a0221][b:5e6b3a0221]accurate [/b:5e6b3a0221][/i:5e6b3a0221]measurements to determine that. This can be difficult in a home shop.

Im afraid of a possible leak so thats why Im thiinking about extra sealer in the oring area.
IMHO avoid this if at all possible. You want a good strong mechanical seal for the long haul.
Being concerned about leaks is a smart thing. Just need to address it correctly. No skimping or shortcuts at this critical junction. Sealant on an O-Ring is not, again, my first choice. It's not how they're designed to work

Sounds like it's time for an automotive machine shop.
 
You know, I've been overhauling those types of engines for 50 years. I have probably done fifty WD-45's and D-17 gas engines. I have never used anything other than Mazola corn oil on the sleeve O-rings. I know of many of my overhauls that are still running. In fact my Uncles One-Seventy (1968 model) I overhauled in 1975 and it is still running today untouched internally by anyone. Same Orings with Mazola corn oil. I have NEVER measured a lower bore for out-of round. I have NEVER measured the inside of a new sleeve for size. I cannot imagine all these things you are finding. Maybe your block has been HOT in its past?? But when I found a cracked block on the top deck, that's what I always blamed that on. Cracked on the bottom is a freezing split. Clean the block bores, test fit the sleeves for a rotating slip fit without the Orings and put the thing together. Either that or get yourself a different block and tell me it's the same way yours was.
 
dr allis. i wish for your comments on add on power steering , on this forum.

old belt came off, i do not know where
put new belt on and no power.
jacked up front end and turned wheels left and right.
where to begin trouble shooting. ?
maybe loosen fitting and see if pump is pumping.
 
Hello I am over hauling a 2290 case right now that someone put silicone on the O rings on the sleeves this caused the O rings to fail and dump coolant into oil it was caught before the crank was hurt, use vegetable oil on the o rings, are the lands in the block pitted if so that will have to addressed. good luck Bryan
 

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