allis chalmers model b

i would like some input from those who have repaired loose rear wheels due to spline wear im trying to make a decision.
my left rear large nut is metal on metal and the wheel is still loose it is a b model 1951 where the wheel is the hub. i can buy a new axle but i havent been able to locate a new wheel and used wheel will have wear since it is softer than axle.
fix number two: remove wheel and put jb weld in the cut splines on both the axle and wheel/hub splines ,put wheel on, let set, and tighten large nut. if you have done this fix let me know if it lasted, seems easy if it holds.
fix number three: put shims in lower cuts of splines, do you put shims in lower cuts of splines on both axle and wheel/hub, how do you hold them while you slide wheel on? crazy glue? this fix seems like it would work , big question how thick would shims be?i dont have micrometers. i know its a lot but i know the experience is out there thanks for the help, e mail me info if you like. bob
 

I think you were already given the best answer, in one of your previous posts. Check salvage yards and see if you can find a wheel and axle still assembled that is tight and purchase them as a pair. You might have to purchase an entire assembled final housing to get them.

I have to agree with Dr Allis and very much doubt you will ever find a new wheel. If you haven't, go over to the "unofficial allis" (that is the name of the website, can't make a link to it on this site due to filters) forum and ask. giving a general idea of your location can help find locations to check near you. And are you willing to pay freight or travel to get parts?
 
I'd be pretty sure JB Weld would work, but wouldn't you have some trouble clamping up without wobble?
 
If the metal to metal is on the BACKSIDE of the hub, you need to grind more... If it is on the FRONT SIDE of the hub , you washers are not thick enough and center hole not large enough.

I used JB weld on one hub, it was a mower and lasted 2 years.. Had to keep tightening after that.. always working loose... If it is a parade tractor / trailer queen , might be OK longer.

You need to take the HUB OFF AND LOOK if you want to know what is going on.
 
i took the big nut off and put 2 washers behind the existing lock washer which is pretty thick, i tightened up the big nut and it is
stopped cold , no give , metal on metal and not pressing on the wheel, it seems as if if i put more washers on it will still bottom out but is will have less threads showing as it is there is about 1/4 inch threqds showing with the estra washers on, hqveing trouble finding spacers with 1 1/2 inch id . where might i find thick spacers this size. it seems like there is a bevel that the washers run up against . will find out more when i pull wheel off waiting for son to help, im little relunctant to pull at 81and o help .
 
(quoted from post at 22:47:48 07/18/21) i took the big nut off and put 2 washers behind the existing lock washer which is pretty thick, i tightened up the big nut and it is
stopped cold , no give , metal on metal and not pressing on the wheel, it seems as if if i put more washers on it will still bottom out but is will have less threads showing as it is there is about 1/4 inch threqds showing with the estra washers on, hqveing trouble finding spacers with 1 1/2 inch id . where might i find thick spacers this size. it seems like there is a bevel that the washers run up against . will find out more when i pull wheel off waiting for son to help, im little relunctant to pull at 81and o help .

As steve (ill) has posted, you need spacers with the inside diameter slightly larger than the splines so it pushes on the wheel when you tighten it, not bottom out on the spline step on the axle shaft, as you describe is happening now. And you also need to grind some off the backside wheel or it will be stopped from tightening there as well. As far as where to get the needed spacer washers, you may need to have a machine shop make some for you, if you can't find any.
 
I think your best advice so far is cutting spacer strips, you can put grease on the ones challenged by gravity, to keep them in place. The thickness needed will be 'trial and error' as it is unknown how thick they should be until you do a try-out. I don't have any faith in JB weld for a long range solution in this application as there will be constant pressure for movement in those grooves due to excess wear. Regarding far less demanding purposes I have found JB weld to fail after a couple of years, it does have its rightful applications, however. On my B I had some play in those splines but not enough to need shims but on tightening the nuts they would work themselves loose after a while. I retightened the nuts really hard and made bolt on locks in the nearby hole in the disk - end of problem for me. If you get to that point I can email you pictures to give you the idea.
 
i like the idea of shims also could you give me a size to start with?. i assume the shims are steel, dont even know where to buy shims.
would appreciate a shim thickness starting point .
 
For myself I wouldn't worry about trying to buy the right size shims, I would just grab a piece of sheet metal and cut my own... maybe I would try 20 gauge first and then it will soon show if the shims should be thinner or thicker. If this wheel disc has been quite loose the seal may be leaking oil...
 
well thats the problem.. You need washers with a 2 inch ID, not 1.5 inch... The washers need to slide OVER THE SPLINES and set on the HUB... The nut then pushes on the WASHERS and the HUB.. All you are doing is pushing on the shaft at the end of the threads at the base of the splines.
 
sorry for the delay in reading your advice please send photos of lock system, im about to put on 2 inch id washers and tighten.
 
got the 2 1/8 i.d. washers and wheel tightened up, making nut locks now, i had to buy 5 washers i can do without one . if someone needs one 2 1/8 id x 4 1/2 od let me know in my email ill send it free of charge. [email protected]
 

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