rear loose wheel on 51 b moswl

my left rear wheel is loose 1 to 1 1/2 inches of play in wheel, main shaft had 1/4 inch showing thread on axel so it had been taken
in already,i took the large odd nut off and put two thin washers in front of lock washer and then put odd nut back on and it bottomed
out metal to metal against the lock washer but not up against the wheel. the wheel is still loose. am i up against a step in the axel,
is there an easy fix or is a new axel called for or axel and bearing needed. can anyone steer me to a tutorial fixing this problem. my
right wheel has less threads showing and is tight .
 
The splines are tapered... YEs, you can only pull the hub in so far before it will STOP and not go any further... If they have already ground the flange on the BACK SIDE of the hub so it does not bottom out against the CASE, it could still run out of spline length..

If you have put on extra washers and are SURE you are pushing on the HUB and not the shaft ( when you tighten the nut), then the HUB is worn out and needs replaced.. The hub is cast and the shaft is harder.. NORMALLY the shaft will not be the problem.. When you remove the HUB, look internal at the splines and that should show a problem... Look at the shaft to see that it looks better condition.
 

''...and then put odd nut back on and it bottomed out metal to metal against the lock washer but not up against the wheel. the wheel is still loose..............

so, you need MORE FLAT WASHERS to push the hub in further.... You could be at the point of replacement.
 
yeterdays tractor in online parts list says they have hubs for wheels but i cannot find a picture and i waited 15 min. and no one answered the phone. i would like to know what this hub i have worn looks like , i have a shop manual but the schematic of the final drive doesnt list a hub it shows the tapered ,splines axel but shows no hub just the the wheel weight that slides over the tapeed ,splines axel. anyone have a picture of the hub i may be replacing?
 
There are a couple of choices.

1 You can use narrow strips of shim stock in each spline.

2. Clean the splines with a degreaser, then coat the splines with JB weld, lots of it. Then put the wheel on but nor all the way, just enough that you can get lock washer on and 1 or 2 threads of the nut. Let the JB weld set up hard then tighten the nut. I prefer this solution. 3. Buy new parts.
 
i havent got the wheel off yet but like the jb treatment, when i take the wheel off i have a axel splined and a hub splined, do i put the jb on the full lenght of the AXEL splines AND the hub splines or just the fill in the splines on the axel?. how much time do i have to get the wheel back on/?. do i put the large nut on and stop when the end of the axel is even with the nut or even less threaded on. how much time do i give it before i tighten every thing up? i want to do this right. thanks for information
 
one more question, i havent got the wheel off yet, is the hub and the wheel weight the same part? will i be able to get the wheel off after the jb fix?
 
I wonder if B and C hubs are the same. I have at least 4 of them from my parts Cs
 
(quoted from post at 17:25:49 07/12/21) i havent got the wheel off yet but like the jb treatment....
PLEASE reconsider the use of JB Weld here. IMHO way too much force in play. There are proper fixes for this. I had both a cast splined wheel center (early B) and an axle worn beyond repair. Replaced them both. Tight as can be ever since.
Plenty of parts around for these old tractors. Check with the guys on allis chalmers dot com


(quoted from post at 18:00:59 07/12/21) I wonder if B and C hubs are the same. I have at least 4 of them from my parts Cs
I think the C' s use a different flanged axle, vs the splined axle and hub, or full cast splined center used on the B's
 
what parts would i need to do this right? new axle ? bearing? seal? if i understand this right the large cast iron wheel center that
thw nut tightens up against is all one piece and is called the hub.would i need to replace that too? can this job be done by removing
wheel and rear cover and getting at it lying on my back? i would actually like to do it right but i didnt want a big tear down to do
it. what parts are needed. e mail me if u want
 
i think the hub on a b is the entire center that the rim is fastened too, do i have that right, havent removed wheel yet.
 
i looked in the catalog i have and it doesnt show new hubs for b's, if the hub is the large center of the wheel and i buy a used one
how do i know it isnt worn just as bsd? im asking a lot of you but i get more from this forum than reading manuals
 
Here is the picture from the parts book. It sounds like you have #1, what is called the wheel, not hub, in the parts book. The wheel is splined and goes directly on the axle splines. A later version used a small hub (#6) on the axle with a bolt on wheel.

mvphoto78469.jpg
 
so far cannot find anywhere to buy a new rear splined wheel for a 51 allis b model. my wheel seems to be the entire wheel center that is cast iron and splined for the axel. if i buy a used one how do i know its not in worse shape than the one i have? so far yesterdays tractor or one other do not show it in thier catalog or i cant find it. anyone got any advice. im told the wheel is softer than the axel so probably more wear on the wheel. if im offered a used one is there a way to be sure its not worse than what ive got. any advice appreciated.
 
B and C are not interchangeable.
You have a B with the splined axle and a cast splined wheel hub. The rim clamps to the hub. Wheel weights are separate pieces of cast iron that bolt onto the hub.
If the hub is run loose on the axle it will eat up the splines. If caught quickly the back of the hub can be ground an the hub reseated. If either set of splines is significantly damaged that part is scrap. As noted the hub goes first but if you have mote than 1 washer and the lock washer under the nut one or both is gone.
Cast hubs havent been made for many years. Junkyard only.
Your best bet is to get a complete final drive and swap or rob parts to rebuild yours. If a complete one look at the drawbar holes, many of them are cracked out. Might be able to get a complete parts unit cheap...
If you lived by Detroit I probably have a hub. Or Dick L who used to play with the little Alliss.
 
I made a wrench for the nut, the shaft and bull gear use 2 of the same nuts. But I rebuilt both my finals, all new bearings and seals, and the best parts from 2 tractors to get one pair of decent final drives. Personally I suspect your axle is beyond salvage. A complete final, an engine hist, and the final to trans gasket I make my own, pretty simple) and about 2 hours.
 
There is nothing "new" when it comes to these parts. If you are able to find one that is still on the tractor and it is still TIGHT, it is 99% probably GOOD. Yes, the cast iron wheel center wears more than the steel axle shaft when things get loose and are not retightened.
 

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