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rear wheel play

R

Robert12345

Member
i know this tractor has some wear on it notice the left rear wheel will move in and out some, someone said tighten the large nut and you may have to put a large washer on it so you can take it in, i want to do this as soon as i get a large washer or two because i see more threads on this wheel than the other, what problems can this cause if i go too far? also is a pipewrench and pipe the only way to loosen the odd nut holding the wheel on, or is there a socket for it?. again appreciate the help
 
If there is a nut there is a socket to fit it. My self I have sockets up to 2-3/4 inches. but have seen 4 and 5 inch sockets
 
WHAT MODEL TRACTOR ????? I'm going to assume a model "B". I fixed one once and it worked out well. I had to make a socket because the large nut isn't hex shaped, it only has two flats on it. Once the socket was made I removed the cast iron wheel center and using a 4 inch grinder, removed some material from the inside of the wheel center. The shaft it slides on is a tapered/splined shaft. Removing some material from the inside will allow the wheel center to slide on farther making it fit tight. You must then use a thick flat washer on the outside under the nut to make this work. Tighten the snot out of the nut and recheck it often until it stays tight. This is a good repair for someone who is patient and understands what the goal is. Your wheel center hole is WORN/LOOSE and the splined shaft is too. Making the wheel center slide on farther will fix it but grinding is necessary to accomplish this AND you must get it TIGHT and keep rechecking it to keep it TIGHT.
 
that makes sense and it is a 51 b model, the nut is as you said odd, once i get the wheel off by taking off the odd looking nut cant i
just lay the tire down and then grind off some material or do i have to remove the weight?.
 
this threaded piece of metal is not square and is a rectangle with the ends rounded , i do have a set of big sockets havent really tried one yet, i really dont understand the thinking behind putting somthing like this on, maybe farmers back then had them old pipe wrenches that had no play and when adjusted stayed square/. its a 51 b model
 
The BEST repair includes: making a socket......using an impact wrench with the socket......remove the wheel center from the rim/tire so you can fit it to the worn axle shaft and see where the looseness actually is... use a large piece of pipe to sledge hammer the wheel center back onto the axle once you grind enough material off the inside to get it to slide on farther....check the nut torque often until it seems to get set.
 
The axle nut on a B is a stamped rectangle with rounded ends. You will find that the sides are sloped. I made a wrench that fits, including mating with the sloped sides, that took my 3/4 driver. As I recall, the axle is 1 1/2, and I could actually buy a hex nut that fit. When I did I discovered the threads were damaged on one side and had to but a die for it ($$).
 
When you take the cast hub off, you will see a LIP on the backside that sets into a GROOVE on the final drive case. That keeps dirt from getting into the area.... The LIP is what you want to grind on.. Maybe take 1/8 inch off if you have a lot of slop..... If you have just a LITTLE play in the wiggle, you can try to tighten the NUT and see if it tightens up.. You have to jack up the tire and rotate in neutral to make sure it did not BOTTOM OUT on the groove on the back side.
-
Also, the WASHER on the front can not slide over the threads and bottom out on the shaft edge.. If it does, and you tighten , it can bottom out and stop moving.... ( if the hub moves in past the threads and you can see the splines) ... i have used TWO washers, one that slides OVER the splines and the second that sets OVER the threads, then install the nut............ all of this assumes you have a LOT of clearance and need to push the HUB on quite a bit ( 1/8 inch or so).
 
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