getting the brake band out

has anyone doing brakes on a b model had trouble getting the brake band out, i got the pins out, clips off and linkage out o the way and thought the brake band should be small enough in width to just cone out the opening but this band is wider than the oblong opening is wide. did someone put wrong band on or do i just have to twist the band to get it out. is the part where the shoe is riveted on narrower or do i have to twist all the way out. is there a special twist tool?
 
the band should not be wider than the hole. See other post.. Use a #9 wire to wrap around end up the band.. pull with prybar or come-along to get it out... New band goes the same way. Wrap #9 wire under the drum and out the top.. tie to the brake band and pull it thru , under the drum, up to the pin hole.
 
ill try the wire and pry bar but this band is definetly wider than the hole at least the ends where the pins go thru i may have to try and grind a little off the shoulder could the guy have put thhis band on while the cast part that connects to the tranmsission was seperaed?
 
i measured the band 2 inches wide the opening 1 3/4inch by 4 1/2 inches dont know how the guy got it in there. he may have put on new drum and put band on then? i think the drum has slipped off key way in toward tractor so i have to remove wheel etc to get at drum , am going to get hold of tractor parts and have them actually measure a band. not sure o have the equipment to stabilize tractor and pull off the gear assembly. may be looking for a mechanic in the area.
 
So what area are you in?? If the brake band is wider then the hole good chance it was installed by having the rear end apart
 
i think the same thing, I am in channahhon ill. on the west edge of joliet ill. 50 miles south of chicago, i may have to have someone with a real shop do this, if i can find someone. if you have some info you can get hold of me at my e mail i guess that is ok its
[email protected]
 
I'm way to far from you to know anything about shops in your area. I'm down here at the Lake of the Ozarks in MO. It would be easy to do in my shop but at one time I had an IH 656 split into 5 pieces and that makes your B look like a riding lawn tractor LOL
 
i doubt it... not a lot of room down the tube to install the linings. The housing is enlarged around the brake area to hold the drum and bands. I dont know the size of the shoes, but never had a problem pulling them out........ Bar and heavy wire should be able to distort them out !!
 
took it for a ride today and degreased it, when i looked in the band opening ther was the drum, its in there sliding back and forth, so i have to take wheel and drive gear off any way so ill get the band out when i remove the dreve system. the drum doesnt look bad at all. when you say you wrap number nine wire in a loop and put a bar in the loop and twist your tajking abut putting the wire thru thr opening where the rear pin went thru, right/?. will need to know for the band installation on other wheel. help appreciated
 
yes... you can not PUSH the brake lining thru the hole, around the drum, and back up the other side. You have to PULL it thru. Take a very heavy wire and stick it down from the top, under the drum, and curve up the other side... wrap one end of the wire on the brake shoe where the in goes... now you can help ENCOURAGE the shoe to go down, and around the brake drum by pulling on the other end of the wire.
 
i dont think i explained that very well, i can actually move drum in toward the tractor on the passenger side so im looking at the axle so this band side can come out when i slide the drum out to replace the key which is missing, but on the other side im going to have to remove the band in the way your describing , my band on the passenger side has a threaded shaft on the front, the back end of this band has the hole where the pin went through, this is where the heavy wire goes through right and a bar goes thru the loop and you twist until you twist the band enough until will get thru the hole, have i got that right? now i need number nine wire. i am going to do the side where drum is missing so i know how to do the side where i have to do the loop and twist. thanks for your patience, this tractor is so high in back my floor jack an pretty high stands which were good for ford 8n are too low, going to look for rr ties for cribbing.
 
YEP.. stick the heavy wire thru the pin hole on the brake shoe. TWIST the wire to make a look that sticks up 3-4 inches out of the housing.. Stick your prybar / pipe thru the loop and rest the end on the case or a 2 x 4, etc... just like pulling a nail with a hammer. If your under a tree or a beam, you can use a 1/2 ton come along to pull it out.
 
I GOT IT BUT, IT BEGS THE QUESTION WHY IN THE WORLD DIDNT THEY MAKE THE BAND 1/4 INCH NARROWER OR THE OPENING 1/4 INCH BIGGER. MY NEW AQUISITION IS GOING TO BE MORE DIFFICULT TO WORK ON THAN HENRYS PRODUCT. I LOOKED AT TAKING TIRE OFF RIM THEN REMOVING WEIGHTED INNER HUB OFF IT LOOKS LIKE THE 4 BOLTS JUST CLAMP TO THE RIM, I SENT FOR 2 MANUALS SO HOPEFULLY I WILL GET REMOVAL INFORMATION THERE. APPRECIATE THE GUIDENCE.
 
on the 4 rim bolts.. When you take them off you will see 2 of them are just BOLTS.. TWO of them are CAMS,, you twist the bolt head to rotate it 180 degrees and rotate the LOCK outward to the rim.. HOLD and tighten the nut... Its a CAM design to wedge the blocks to the rim.
 
To reinstall, put the two straight bolts and clamps onto the hub at 2 and 11 oclock position... put a floor jack on the drawbar and lower the hub 1 inch below the rim height.. Roll the tire over and set around the hub, where you want it to set......... jack up the floor jack and let the rim hang on the two stationary clamps.... now you can install the two CAMS at 5 and 8 oclock positons.. ROTATE the bolts so the push OUT ( there is an arrow on the head)... and tighten the nuts.
 
SO IF I LEAVE THE TWO BOLTS IN I CAN ROTATE THE TWO CAMS SO THEY NO LONGER GRAB THE RIM THEN TAKE OUT THE TWO BOLTS AND REMOVE THE LESS HEAVY TIRE AND RIM AND DEAL WITH THE WEIGHTED HUB BY ITSELF?, IVE SENT FOR MY MANUALS BUT WHAY DID ALLIS CHALMERSS MAKE THE WHEEL ATTACHMENT IN THIS WAY, WHY CAMSS? INSEAD OF 4 BOLTS? THANKS FOR YOUR PATIENCE, THE ONE THING THAT KEEPS ME FROM DIVING IN IS THE CRIBBING AND HOISTS NEEDED TO REMOVE THE CAST IRON DRIVE SECTION. IM GOING TO TO PUT OUT FEELERS TO SEE IF I CAN FIND SOMEONE IN WILL COUNTY, OR GRUNDY COUNTY ILLINOIS WHO WOULD DO THE BRAKES AND HAD WORKED ON THIS MODEL BEFORE.
 
yep... rotate the two cam bolts to loosen, then take them out.. the other two can stay on the HUB.... there are some aftermarket rims that have a LOOP welded to the rim to stick the bolt thru and no cams. They used them on some International tractors.. Dont know why ALLIS did the cam.
 
Rim from the Farmall A and B will bolt right on. I know because I have done so in the past and with out looking to be sure I think one of my Cs have one on it
 
Position the 2 non cam mounts at the top and the 2 cam ones at the bottom. That way it will hang on the two top ones till you either rotate the center or use a pry bar to lift it off. BTDT many times
 
thanks im now going to ask the railroad switch engine crew if i can take a couple old ties for cribbing ive got your picture of how to chain it up. can you give me some insight of whats in the part im takeing off, my brake drum is in there and slides back and forth, key way is missing. i thought i would see a bolt hole when the drum slid out of sight, supposedly ther is a bolt you put in from the bottom to hold the drum? i didnt see a bolt with the drum in the catalogue/ what if its broke off can i tack weld it. any one know the size of the bolt. going to borrow an engine hoist that dhould handle it.the piece not the trsctor
 
Keep the good tire on the ground. Block under the center case ( differential / transmission).. you can also put a block under the square tube sticking out both sides that the brake pedals bolt to. Take the tire and rim off the hub. If the hub is loose on the shaft ( wobble), then take the BIG nut off and remove the hub also. If the hub is TOO TIGHT to move, leave it on.. TAke out the 4 nuts holding the FINAL DRIVE CASE ( left or right) to the DIFFERENTIAL/ TRANSMISSION case.. Rig up the engine puller or overhead chainfall to the Final Case.. bump the case outward with a hammer and it will slide off. The TOP SHAFT that has the brake drum on it is splined and slides INTO the Differential. When the case is off, you will be able to reach inside and move the brake drum.. The shaft has a KEY WAY in it.. The brake drum has a KEY WAY in it. There is a key that holds the two together. There is a square head bolt in the edge of the brake drum that you screw in to put the drum in a bind so it will not slide sideways off the key.. The bolt is probably a 3/8 NC thread. You tighten it thru the 1 inch hole in the underside of the final drive case.
 

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