b model missing brake drum

looks like i bought a tractor with major brake problems. removed brake band hardware and i see a 2 or so shaft but no drum, no pieces of a drum either so someone removed the drum and left brake band as is. drivers side i can see a shiny grooved drum.my problem is im not sure i have the tools or set up to replace a drum,looks like wheel comes off and maybe i can access drum through a 4 bolt cover. number. one do i need specialty tools do do the job , number two IF I COULD FIND SOMEONE AROUND MORRIS/JOLIET AREA WHO COULD DO IT WHAT MONEY AM I LOOKING AT APPROX. gonna have to make a decision. tractor runs good no noises no smoke.its 1951 b model.
 
You need to remove the tire/ rim . It helps to remove the 20 inch diameter wheel hub to cut down on the weight.. After blocking the tractor up, you take the 4 nuts off holding the final drive case against the transmission/ bevel gear case. The 4 studs will remain. They are 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch ... You rig the final drive unit and remove, sliding it off the 4 studs ... If the brake hub is entirely gone, then you are ready to get a new one and slide on.. You might have to remove the OUTER small bearing cover and pull the shaft all the way out of the case to wire brush and clean up.. Maybe, maybe not... The hub is held on with a setscrew. You install it thru the 1 inch diameter hole on the bottom of the case, below the brake drum.
 
steve thank you for the reply, i think i will try it myself , rigging will be kind of a problem but doable, does the hub slide over a keyway? and then is held in place with this screw, will screw come with new hub? . do i drain transmission oil first, not sure where drain and fill plug is yet need manual. one other thing im haveing a time getting the old break band out its too wide, going to muscle it tommorrow and bend it to get it out. you guys help has been great. gonna need a special wrench to get wheel nut off it looks like
 
Yes, the brake hub slides over a key.. The setscrew is a normal bolt thread buy has a square head instead of hex.. May or may not come with the hub.. There are 3 different drains under the transmission, bevel gear, and pto area.. 3/8 inch pipe plugs i believe.. Total is about 8 quarts.. all the same oil.. small divider wall betweeen the 3 cavities.

If you park under a rafter in the garage, you can put a small come - along on the band and pull it up... Use #9 wire to grab the band and then twist it into a loop.. I have used the beam above, have also used a 3 ft prybar thru the loop and pry up against the housing to pull the band out.
 
may have to enlarge hole to get band out band is 2 inches wide hole is 1 3/4 x 4 inches. or take it out when i get rt. side gear drive off question do i have to take seat and frame off or can i remove tow bar bolt and take bolt out unnder outside pekal in orere to just lift seat frame enuogh to wiggle drive gear assembly and slide it out. fenders are off. where do i get a tool to fit the oblong nut holding thewheel on or do i use a pipe wrench. appreciate all the help.
 
pipe wrench or big cresent is fine for the nut... I would not try to partially take things apart. remove the fender / seat frame / seat to get plenty of room ...

if you are trying to install a brake drum, you MAY not need to remove the wheel hub.. but a lot of extra weight on the chainfall.. watch your toes !! sometimes the HUBS can be very hard to remove, sometimes they come easy.
 
that nut is the only thing holding the wheel on correct. once i take the large oddly shaped nut off, the cast iron center,rim and tire slide off of a splined axle. my left wheel seems to have a slight in/out wobble going down the road, can that be teken out much the same way by tightening the large nut or is something wore beyond adjustment.im trying to find someone in the area south of chicago to do it if not ill be forced give it a go. thanks for thele help
 
Yes, that BIG NUT is all that holds the hub onto the splines.. The nut is suppose to be about 600 ft pounds of torque so the hub can be HARD to pull off. Sometimes smacking it at 3 oclock and 9 oclock back and forth will make it pop loose..Easier if you have the tire and rim off, but COULD be done in one big chunk.....

There is a lip on the backside of the hub that fits into a groove in the housing.. Kind or a coarse dirt seal.. You can TIGHTEN the outside BIG NUT and see if the hub is pulled in tighter on the shaft.. Have trans in neutral and try to rotate tire now and then.. If the lip on the back bottoms out in the groove, the tire will be hard to turn.. You can take the hub back off and grind 1/8 inch off the lip to get more clearance to pull the hub inward... If you do that, you might push the hub past the threads on the BIG NUT area.. Nut can bottom out on the splines and not touch hub.. Might have to get a 2 inch washer to go under the nut..
 
believe it or not i understood all of your instructions, thanks,i wrote a reply to you in another post but didnt include this , i went for a ride today and now that the fenders are off i noticed the left wheel moves in and out a little, right one no,when i got back i grabbed the top of the tire and pulled and pushed, there was some movement but right side ok is this something that can be fixed by adjustment or are parts replacement needed?.
 
while shaking the tire, look to see where the movement is. If the SHAFT is moving up and down, you have a bearing problem... NORMALLY the hub is moving on the shaft. You can tighten the nut to push the hub inward... see my last post above on how to MODIFY the back side of the hub if it BOTTOMS OUT on the case.
 
lets hope its a take up the slack problem, got enough on my plate as it is , what special tools are needed if its a bearing and do you have to remove the 4 bolt drive unit to do bearing. thanks
 
Depending on where it is it can be pretty easy or it can be a big job and having to split the tractor
 

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