Gas D15 coolant in oil

Shawnba67 · May 15, 2021

So my gas d15 has started mingling the fluids. Is there a pretty common cause/causes?

old · May 15, 2021

2 most common is head gasket or sleeve seals. If I remember right it is a wet sleeve engine. So cheapest way to check is drain the oil and pull the oil pan and lay a piece of cardboard under it. Be sure the cooling system is full. Then watch for where coolant hits the cardboard and have a look see where it comes from. Tat will tell you if it is a sleeve seal

derwen1959 · May 16, 2021

Could even be corroded liners... is coolant dirty rusty colour??

Shawnba67 · May 16, 2021

Should I be considering replacing the bearings, still has good oil pressure and no knocking. Its a tired tractor and if the head comes off I am going to re-sleave it so It sounds like a in frame rebuild is in order. But Im a cheap ole fool and would like to get away with not doing more than I have to. But I also dont want to do it twice either!!

old · May 16, 2021

I learned years ago it is best to pull the crank and have it checked instead of throwing good money after bad

4wdtom · May 16, 2021

I think those engines have freeze plugs in the top of the head ( the larger W engine used in WDs, 45x etc. do) and they can rust and leak water into the oil. First thing to check.

Shawnba67 · May 17, 2021

Did not see any freeze plug on the head. Did see coolant running out around #2 sleeve!!

steve(ill) · May 17, 2021

I had a similar problem ... Bought a bottle of BARS copper head gasket sealer and poured half into the radiator... Sealed the liner o-ring right up !!. ... That was about 4 years ago.

ac45dave · May 17, 2021

(quoted from post at 08:54:35 05/17/21) Did not see any freeze plug on the head. Did see coolant running out around #2 sleeve!!

There are three core plugs in the center top of the head under the rocker assembly.Make sure you check those as well.

Jim.ME · May 17, 2021

(quoted from post at 07:54:35 05/17/21) Did not see any freeze plug on the head. Did see coolant running out around #2 sleeve!!

Coolant running out around the bottom of the sleeve is a problem for sure. As for the core hole plugs, look again, right under the rocker arm shaft. Here is the picture and part number from the parts book. You should be able to match them by size and depth at a parts store.

old · May 17, 2021

That to me says bad sleeve seal o-ring

Nordic · May 17, 2021

The frost plugs are 1.25" diameter, I paid a dollar each at the auto parts store. In the future I will always put new ones in when doing engine work. They look perfect from the top but corrode underneath.

Shawnba67 · May 17, 2021

AH! the frost plugs were under the oily mess! Rod #1 bearing looked like it had worm burrows! The journal appears fine, guess I gotta get the bigger kit!

old · May 17, 2021

I'd pull the crank out an have it checked and maybe turned if out of round. If the bearing showed sign of wear the crank will be worn also and in the long run it will save you time and $$ plus maybe the engine it self

Jim.ME · May 17, 2021

(quoted from post at 18:38:52 05/17/21) AH! the frost plugs were under the oily mess! Rod #1 bearing looked like it had worm burrows! The journal appears fine, guess I gotta get the bigger kit!

How are you going to decide which bearings to buy without knowing what it takes to clean the crank up? I'd let the shop that checks/polishes/grinds the crank get the bearings. Then they "own" the whole thing as far as fit and finish. JMHO

DrAllis · May 17, 2021

It is highly unusual to have a sleeve Oring fail without a cause. A terribly neglected cooling system that has built up a lot of rust and sludge in the bottom would be one cause. An engine that has been overheated can get hot enough to cause a piston to score in the Oring belt area and the heat then burns the rubber of the Oring and then it leaks. A loose fan belt or a leaking water pump or plugged radiator with a non functional temp gauge can contribute to overheating. Good luck.

Shawnba67 · May 18, 2021

(quoted from post at 05:07:59 05/18/21)

(quoted from post at 18:38:52 05/17/21) AH! the frost plugs were under the oily mess! Rod #1 bearing looked like it had worm burrows! The journal appears fine, guess I gotta get the bigger kit!

Click to expand...

How are you going to decide which bearings to buy without knowing what it takes to clean the crank up? I'd let the shop that checks/polishes/grinds the crank get the bearings. Then they "own" the whole thing as far as fit and finish. JMHO

ell the bearings all say 010 on them, and the rod journal measured 1.927 which is 010 under. It is not the most sound logic but I need a bigger tractor and I have been getting by with this d 15. I do not want to put another $1500 in it, as at that amount I feel I should be shopping for a bigger tractor. The crank looks fine no grooves ridges or other obvious thats a problems was quiet and good oil pressure. . Its 010 under so its been cleaned up before. It also sat for a decade which has been knickel and diming me into submissiion! Any way Id love to be under $700 and really if it lasts another year or so I will be happy. Whats an old D15 worth? Jumps out of 3rd if you look downhill, non ac wheels I figure if I spend 1500 on engine Id be a fool, course wasting 700 is foolish too. But I believe my odds are OK on this one. Every choice is a gamble!

Gas D15 coolant in oil

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