A little while back I posted about this problem. Since, I have reringed it, valve job, new gaskets etc. While down the block was checked and cleaned by spraying and using air for any crud or sediment, the water pump looked fine and moved water while spinning it in mop sink,the rad was flushed with CLR and even a weak mix of muriatic,when put back together it was flushed and back flushed again, timed correctly per manual. Tractor runs great, but using inf thermometer head and block will rise to beyond 200 degrees and will eventually push the coolant out. Takes about 20 minutes of running but it gets there. There is no thermostat in it currently, doesnt matter if its 50/50 mix or straight water.. Same result. Out of ideas and patience, never dealt with anything like this in 30 yrs of various brand of antique tractors..
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RogerinIowa
Member
Does the bottom hose get hot? If not, coolant is not circulating.
An highly unusual overheating problem of a non-loaded engine with wet sleeves. While having the engine disassembled for rings, you didn't pull out the wet sleeves ?? and absolutely clean out the block while the sleeves were out ?? The sleeve Orings wouldn't have cost $20 bucks ?? So you really don't know how clean the block is do you??..As suggested above, if the lower hose never gets HOT, it isn't circulating coolant. The lack of a thermostat isn't the problem.
If this engine was pulling a plow and working hard, I could understand that argument. It isn't doing anything and slowly, but surely gets HOT. It did it before and it still does it. I have overhauled probably a hundred of that type of AC gas engine over the years and I have scooped out mud and sediment with a putty knife on some, I have seen the block cavity practically FULL of crap, so don't tell me that it isn't a possibility. I just can't imagine not pulling out the sleeves to clean it so it couldn't be the issue.
I never disagreed with the idea you
presented, I didn't remove sleeves because
they measured good. It smoked some so I
thought i would freshen it up a little.
Perhaps it was foolish, but after the rad
flush with chemicals and seeing what came
out I figured that was the culprit. The
project kinda went south anyway because my
father passed away from nnalert right after I
tore it down so my mind is wasn't and still
not right and sharp as it usually is after
that.
presented, I didn't remove sleeves because
they measured good. It smoked some so I
thought i would freshen it up a little.
Perhaps it was foolish, but after the rad
flush with chemicals and seeing what came
out I figured that was the culprit. The
project kinda went south anyway because my
father passed away from nnalert right after I
tore it down so my mind is wasn't and still
not right and sharp as it usually is after
that.
Yes compared the new gasket and it was a match. And it did have a thermostat before I posted the first time, and heated up way worse, and the thermostat was fine when tested on the stove. This tractor had been used regularly by the previous owner until he passed and it sat in a garage for 2 years.
The block drain is on the left just ahead of the carb and is 1/4" pipe thread. You might consider connecting a garden hose directly to the block and removing the lower radiator hose. Maybe the pressure of the water will loosen up the build-up inside the block (if there is any) and puke it out the front of the block thru the water pump. Parking the tractor nose down would be a good starting point, then if you see results of sludge coming out, raise the front end to help the water work around the rear of the block. Removing the T-stat housing and top cover plate on the head could then allow more upwards flushing after the lower hose is reinstalled after lots of block flushing. Your overheating problem is not a common thing on the WD45 gas engine.
Flushing a radiator with CLR or acid doesn't mean the tubes are clean. A good amount of them are still plugged. I have a good idea that you'll need to have it re cored. I had to have the ones in my 4040 Deere and White 2-105 re cored, I would have on my 2-135 White, but I needed it right now, so I sprung for a whole new radiator. Yes, I had tried to clean all three and it just didn't work. My 1550 Oliver was overheating real bad too, but I had bought a parts tractor at an auction and swapped the radiator off that one and it cured it.
I had the one out of the 4040 rodded out once, but it just made it start springing leaks.
I had the one out of the 4040 rodded out once, but it just made it start springing leaks.
Traditional Farmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- Virginia
Has to be something really stopped up,we ran a WD45 for years about the last tractor I can think of that would over heat even under a heavy load on a hot day.
rustred
Well-known Member
take the rad to a rad shop and have it boiled out. seams your doing everything except the problem. they can flow check it. before and after. all these concoctions are for mild cases of plugging . when you have hard calcium build up they do not cut it. and if it was that easy there would be no rad shops in business and they are getting scarce now with aluminum and plastic stuff.
16-30 oilpull
Member
I know you've been given some top notch advise,and what I'm suggesting probably isn't the solution. If you haven't tried a new thermostat would be easy to do. someone said the water is going thru to fast. had this on a model T with a water pump. An old Ford guy told me to do this and it solved boiling over in parades. Good luck
rustred
Well-known Member
i just think that is a myth that the myth buster should have tryed. i have have been around lots of engines with out stats. and they run cool. just have a hard time to believe no stat will make it run hot. that fan pulls a lot of air through the rad also. BUT" the water pump looked fine and moved water while spinning it in a mop pail" if you had a drill hooked to it it should be a full flow stream and a pail is a useless check . get it in a rain barrel or cow trough then see what it will do. it has to do more than move water. take the back cover off and inspect the impeller. it might be all rusted to nothing. so you have 2 choices water pump or rad.
I think you can dismiss the idea that "no thermostat" would be the cause for overheating. I run my WF with no thermostat, very close to the same block as your WD45. I work it hard pushing snow, even with the louvers fully shut it will only reach the start of the green on the gauge. However, last summer without even putting it to work (this is my first season ever working it), it would heat up unusually fast (louvers open), I was suspicious of the timing and yes after advancing the timing it will not warm up like that anymore. I assume your timing is set at 30 degrees advanced? Perhaps you may have mentioned this in your previous post...
Tramway Guy
Well-known Member
I run my WF with no thermostat, very close to the same block as your WD45.
The WF does not have a bypass thermostat. The WD45 does.
The WF does not have a bypass thermostat. The WD45 does.
Butch(OH)
Well-known Member
"I just think that is a myth that the myth buster should have tryed"
Agreed, in close to 60 years working on engines and equipment I have never seen it, only read about it. Near as I can tell the myth started with flathead Fords with open cooling systems. Poor water circulation would cause the water to boil in the heads. Some enterprizing individual put a restriction in the water outlet which helped the problem but it wasn't from slowing the water flow down, it was due to creating a slight pressure in the heads which raising the boiling point, none the less like a lot of other things the too fast through the radiator deal is repeted often
Agreed, in close to 60 years working on engines and equipment I have never seen it, only read about it. Near as I can tell the myth started with flathead Fords with open cooling systems. Poor water circulation would cause the water to boil in the heads. Some enterprizing individual put a restriction in the water outlet which helped the problem but it wasn't from slowing the water flow down, it was due to creating a slight pressure in the heads which raising the boiling point, none the less like a lot of other things the too fast through the radiator deal is repeted often
Butch(OH)
Well-known Member
I agree that there can be local hot spots. If Then if the coolant boils in certain areas it will shove coolant out of the overflow even if the temp of the coolant in general is way below the boiling point. This is what happens on the model Ts and other flatheads and due to the fact that a restriction raises pressure behind it which in turn raises the boiling point then coolant is not shoved out the overflow and the myth that it was due to water moving too fast is given another boost, LOL
Traditional Farmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- Virginia
Every tractor or vehicle that I had that the thermostat stuck open it ran cold not hot.
If I was a betin man I'd say the radiator is plugged. Chances are that if you clean the tubes enough to increase the flow as needed you will discover you have a bunch of holes. If you have more time then money and can solder pretty good you could de-solder the top tank of the radiator and use a brass rod to clear the tubes, flush it then solder the tank back on. Cost of solder, flux and some time. If it leaks like I suspect it would, a new Chinese radiator is the cheapest fix. Just a thought and I could be wrong.
Jerry Coulter
Member
Does it have the correct fan blade? The WD45 came with a different blade than the WC-WD blade to pull more air. But I think your problem is the radiator and it needs to go to the shop for overhaul.
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