WD In BAD Shape

Parker2003 · Nov 9, 2020

So I plan on trying to restore my great, great, grandpas old tractor in the near future. I have never done anything like this so I figured I would see if y’all had any tips for me first. Below is a picture of the tractor. As you can see it is half grown into a tree. My dad says if I can get it running he will get it out of the tree. First things first, do y’all think this thing is restorable. I already got the top of the engine block off, as shown in the pic. Looking at the pics really doesn’t do the amount of rust on this thing justice. Pls let me know if you have any ideas about how to go about this and where to begin. Thx, Parker

Parker2003 · Nov 9, 2020

Ok, I clicked choose photos and videos, and I lpicked my pictures but they don’t appear to be showing up. Do y’all know what I’m doing wrong, this is only my second time using these forums.

J Hamilton · Nov 9, 2020

If you're new here, you'll need to make a few posts before you can post pics. You can use the "test" section to keep trying until they load.

Aaron SEIA · Nov 9, 2020

Nothing can't be restored. Its just weather or not it's worth it. If it's as rusty as you say, plan on at least a grand in engine work or $600 or so for a running engine. First thing I'd do is get it out of the tree and under a roof. Any idea if the tranny is locked up?
AaronSEIA

4wdtom · Nov 9, 2020

If the boot on the shift lever is cracked or gone it probably has water in the transmission. If it froze it could be cracked. Pull the plug in the PTO and see if any water comes out. Even if it has water in it it may still be OK. Sometimes rust doesn't happen to bad unless the water can get to air and the water is , hopefully" covered with oil if there is any water. Check the gas tank and clean it and the carb. Clean and adjust points. And we don't know how bad the cylinders are yet as your pictures aren't up yet. Usually if water came down the exhaust pipe it only gets into one or two cylinders. You may be able to bet used or new pistons and liners for only those cylinders if they are bad and can't be cleaned up. You could pull bearing caps and check the crankshaft bearings but if the tractor was running when it was parked you probably can get it running and check out the rest of the tractor without doing this. Did any water come out of the crankcase when you drained it?

David R Inman · Nov 9, 2020

Saw your photos over on the restoration page-no ones pointed out yet, that is a WC at least rear end, can tell by the rear end shape, seat-back and hand breaks. Think I see the reverse gear button of a WC trans. So you may want to check on the family story some too-bit at least you don’t say bought new just was his.
A WC, WD, or WD45 engine will fit if you wish to go the route of cheapest rebuild of family tractor. But since the head is off, you probably may as well go ahead and look to see if you can get the pistons free and if the block is not cracked. If I read correctly you took the head off, so shouldn’t have any issues with the head gasket surface being pitted.
I saw the gas tank in the foreground of one of the photos, so is the rest of the tin around and what shape is it in?
Personally I wouldn’t really want to work on it where it sits if a better shop is available, but on the other hand, since you tore into it, may be just as easy to work on where it sits.

rustred · Nov 9, 2020

i saw the pictures also. that is reaally really rough condition, but nothing saying u cant restore it. if you watch those restoration shows on tv that gives you an idea what you need to do. this unit requires a complete tear dowm parts marked and organized then the cleanup starts from scratch. FIRST THING, get it in a shop where it can be worked on. might be ok to work in the bush to tear it down but sure not to assemble it. plus u will need a fat wallet, at least 10k fat. .plus need one or two doner tractors. plus are u able to do everything or need a helping hand.

Parker2003 · Nov 10, 2020

Here is the link to the post where the pics are for future reference.
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=rrtips&th=51947

So are you saying the tractor might be a wc? The rest of the tin is very rusty but I think it may be possible to paint over it. I’m gonna look in WC’s to see if maybe that’s what it is. The gas tank will have to be replaced, there are just too many holes in it. As far as getting it to a workshop, my dad said I have to prove I can make it work before it comes out of the tree so I’m kinda stuck there.

Parker2003 · Nov 10, 2020

What do you think is going to cost 10k? All the parts online seem to be about $100-300 a piece. Also I think I’m good on help my dad will prob be willing to help soon.

TractorTucker · Nov 10, 2020

tires and machine shop bill

rustred · Nov 10, 2020

guess you have not restored a tractor yet. looking at 2 k just for ties. couple K for the engine. by the time u get the diff and trans. housing stripped and inspected and and brgs. bought, be about the same. then there is the painting and i would say you will be at 10k in no time. restoring a tractor and patching it up to run is two totally different things. you are looking at a few thousand to get that thing running.. just to rebuild a head it is 500.00.parts are not cheap , then there is labour costs which i have not got into. you always will have more into any old tractor than its worth once you are talking restored. painting a tractor is not restoring a tractor either as many seam to think. if its a slop job paint job you did on a nice original tractor then you just screwed up that tractors value.

rustred · Nov 10, 2020

boy he is asking a lot from you. mechanic's would laugh at him. makes about as much sense as overhauling the engine in a field with a wild wind blowing. there is no dought things can be brought back to life but give the person some slack and a place to work.

4wdtom · Nov 10, 2020

I agree that 10k is on the high side but only if you do all or most of the work. Tires and rims are a big one and an engine kit and crankshaft machining (if it needs it) will likely add a thousand or so, I haven't priced that work lately and parts. If the transmission and other internal gears are not useable it would be best to look for a parts tractor and use the whole rear end/transmission/hydraulic system rater than take it all apart and replace a gear here and one there and get into having to set up t he rear end gears. Maybe $500 more or less for a parts tractor, depending. Make sure it has what you need. You need to look into the internals of the tractor and then look at what you think you will need for parts. If no water got into the internals they don't need to come apart and don't need new bearings. The transmission and rear end may need new seals. There will be other costs like a radiator, core replacement will be $500 or so. Brakes, assorted parts like wires, brake linings, springs etc. and on and on but IF YOU DO THE WORK it shouldn't be over 3 or 4 thousand I don't think.

TractorTucker · Nov 10, 2020

Hopefully you can at least convince him to let you put the engine in a shop, I would focus on the engine first and just pull drain plugs on the transmission and put a tarp over it. You will want to buy a parts tractor that hopefully has everything you are missing or is shot on your tractor

David R Inman · Nov 11, 2020

Yes, see here for better id of a WC rear axel, and the location on it where the WC Serial number is stamped:

And this the WD & WD45 rear axel, and where it is stamped for the serial number of the tractor (note the photo tractor has a aftermarket 3pt):

The link can be used to determine the year of a wc sn-WC 11641 in the photo above makes a 1935.
Serial Number List for Allis Chalmers: Model WC

Parker2003 · Nov 11, 2020

A few updates today along with some pics (if they work). I accidentally snapped a few bolts on the steering box, and I managed to get all the bolts out of it only to realize the wheels are buried in tree and dirt. Also I opened up a box near the back of the tractor that leads to a lever near the steering wheel. The lever moves along with the gears in the box. I think it is the Park, Neutral, Reverse, Drive lever, although I uploaded a video of it so correct me if I’m wrong. I got a lot of pics of different parts of the tractor so you can see it in more detail. If you have questions on the pics just ask. Does anyone know all the steps for removing the cylinder block? I’ve unscrewed every bolt I can find on the front bottoms and back, but it won’t budge. Lastly, does anyone know how to remove the u joint that connects the steering wheel to the steering box. I’m really not sure how it come off. I left a pic of it too btw. If the pics don’t work I will try leaving a reply with them attached.

Parker2003 · Nov 11, 2020

Here's some photos I took today.

Aaron SEIA · Nov 12, 2020

There is no such thing as a "Park, neutral, reverse, drive" lever. There is a transmission disconnect between the transmission and differential. All movement comes from the 4 forward, one reverse gear transmission. The 2 levers on either side of the seat are hand brakes. The little flip over thing at the base of those is the "park lock". There is no need to remove the pedestal to do any work on the tractor.
AaronSEIA

David R Inman · Nov 12, 2020

I make your serial number WC 877?6, cant really tell the digit in the question mark place. I make that a 1939, which fits with a styled WC (the bullet gas tank and tin). You've definitely got a WC trans, and Aaron has well covered your levers and such. To continue with a couple more of your questions- the u joint in the steering column probably won't come apart unless you can turn the steering wheel, which the way the front end is sunk in the ground, doubt you can. But good news, like the bolts you broke off, it don't need to be taken apart in order to pull the block. However you'll need a hoist, loader, forklift, etc to lift it out, once you do have all the bolts out. I don't exactly recall how many-not all that many really. Go to agcopartsbooks.com, sign in as guest viewer and search WC. That will give you the parts book, can be helpful to finding what bolts you missed. Also the this link for one of the manuals should help.
Manual

4wdtom · Nov 13, 2020

Yes, I have restored a tractor or two. And done all but the crankshaft and head work myself including shimming the crank and painting. the WD I have is made of 2 1/2 tractors. Parts tractors for a few hundred will provide most of the parts needed except for the engine internals, probably and some things like rims, tires/tubes, possibly magneto, carb, water pump, radiator. But it doesn't come to 10 grand. A lot of what I posted was based on this being a WD, which he said it was. The rear end being separate from the transmission is probably OK. The transmission may have issues as the boot probably leaked water into it. Who knows what the engine will involve but parts are available used if one looks. The main question I have about this involved "restoration", after reading thorough more and more posts, is that the owner seems to be very inexperienced as a mechanic. If determined and somewhat mechanically inclined he can probably get through with some help from friends and forums like this one. But it will be a long project and a real learning experience for him. And he should be studying a complete set of manuals.

4wdtom · Nov 13, 2020

Yes, I have restored a tractor or two. And done all but the crankshaft and head work myself including shimming the crank and painting. the WD I have is made of 2 1/2 tractors. Parts tractors for a few hundred each for one or two will provide most of the parts needed except for the engine internals, probably and some things like rims, tires/tubes, possibly magneto, carb, water pump, radiator. But it doesn't come to 10 grand. A lot of what I posted was based on this being a WD, which he said it was. The rear end being separate from the transmission on a WC is probably OK. The transmission may have issues as the boot probably leaked water into it. Who knows what the engine will involve but parts are available used if one looks. The main question I have about this involved "restoration", after reading thorough more and more posts, is that the owner seems to be very inexperienced as a mechanic. If determined and somewhat mechanically inclined he can probably get through with some help from friends and forums like this one. But it will be a long project and a real learning experience for him. And he should be studying a complete set of manuals.

Jim.ME · Nov 13, 2020

Parker2003,

As 4wdtom said it is time to study some manuals. Here are some links to sites where you can get info. You can read them on line; or if you save them to a computer; then for the cost of some ink and paper, you print them so you have hard copies to study and refer to as you work on the tractor.

Here is a link to take you to a source where you can down load and save Allis Chalmers Manuals for a WC. Look through the index of the AC manuals and about #31 you will see several manuals related to the WC. https://archive.org/details/collection_01_allis_chalmers_manuals/wc-service-complete

This site has a good bit of WC info. http://allis01.com/

And here is an aftermarket (I&T) manual with WC info. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/886085/Allis-Chalmers-B.html

WD In BAD Shape

New User

New User

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

New User

New User

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Member

New User

New User

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Similar threads