53 CA electrics

JK TN

Member
recently purchased a running 53 CA, but the instrument box was a mess: ammeter busted, light switch frozen and corroded; key switch broken. I purchased a new key switch and ammeter. Do I have to have the light switch, inasmuch as the tractor has no lights? If not, what do I do with the wires that were attached to the switch (I'm not sure if it serves any function other than lights)?
 
(quoted from post at 10:23:26 09/15/20) recently purchased a running 53 CA, but the instrument box was a mess: ammeter busted, light switch frozen and corroded; key switch broken. I purchased a new key switch and ammeter. Do I have to have the light switch, inasmuch as the tractor has no lights? If not, what do I do with the wires that were attached to the switch (I'm not sure if it serves any function other than lights)?

The original switch controlled the charging rate as well as the lights.

Here is a link you can click on to get to a copy of the Allis Chalmers shop manual for the G, B&C, and CA. There is a wiring diagram for the CA on page CA 54.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nvxDDuq8gSc9ex2Y4n4wH3OWvMt8Foeb/view
 
(quoted from post at 09:42:15 09/15/20)
(quoted from post at 10:23:26 09/15/20) recently purchased a running 53 CA, but the instrument box was a mess: ammeter busted, light switch frozen and corroded; key switch broken. I purchased a new key switch and ammeter. Do I have to have the light switch, inasmuch as the tractor has no lights? If not, what do I do with the wires that were attached to the switch (I'm not sure if it serves any function other than lights)?

The original switch controlled the charging rate as well as the lights.

Here is a link you can click on to get to a copy of the Allis Chalmers shop manual for the G, B&C, and CA. There is a wiring diagram for the CA on page CA 54.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nvxDDuq8gSc9ex2Y4n4wH3OWvMt8Foeb/view

Thanks, Jim.ME. I've downloaded the manual and printed out the wiring diagram. I'll go ahead and order the light switch. Need to get this machine working for it's keep again. :)
 
Is it still 6 volt or has it been changed to 12 volts?? If 12 volts then that switch doesn't do anything i the charge circuit
 
(quoted from post at 11:32:47 09/15/20) Is it still 6 volt or has it been changed to 12 volts?? If 12 volts then that switch doesn't do anything i the charge circuit

Old, it is still 6 volts. Since the tractor doesn't have any lights, can I just not wire in a new switch and stub off the wires that go to that switch, or bypass the switch in some way?
 
If you want to keep the tractor as a 6 volt then you need the switch to control the charge rate of the generator. If you put an alternator on it for a 12 volt conversion then you can remove the switch and associated wires.
 
Yes no or maybe. If the old light switch is part of the charging system then you need it to control high and low charge
 
If your tractor still has the original 6 volt, (originally positive ground), generator with the cutout mounted on the generator; the switch should be kept to provide the high and low charge rates, regardless of if it has lights or not. You do not have to use the light terminals on the switch. The cutout on the generator is not a regulator, only a disconnect. The generator is a three brush unit that will only charge at one rate without the switch.

The high/low charging rates are good to have. If you are only running a few minutes and starting often (or install lights at some point), run the high rate. If you are running for hours at a time with no load, like lights, the low rate keeps the battery charged without overcharging. I have a CA with this charging system and that is how I use the switch.

A basic description of the generator is on page CA-32 of the manual.
 
(quoted from post at 04:18:50 09/16/20) If your tractor still has the original 6 volt, (originally positive ground), generator with the cutout mounted on the generator; the switch should be kept to provide the high and low charge rates, regardless of if it has lights or not. You do not have to use the light terminals on the switch. The cutout on the generator is not a regulator, only a disconnect. The generator is a three brush unit that will only charge at one rate without the switch.

The high/low charging rates are good to have. If you are only running a few minutes and starting often (or install lights at some point), run the high rate. If you are running for hours at a time with no load, like lights, the low rate keeps the battery charged without overcharging. I have a CA with this charging system and that is how I use the switch.

A basic description of the generator is on page CA-32 of the manual.

Thanks, Jim, old and TractorTucker. I'm pretty comfortable turning wrenches, but the electrics have always confounded me. I'll do as y'all suggest and wire in a new switch.
 

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