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WD Allis sitting for 5 years

M

Mike Wheels

Member
I just picked up another WD with a loader on. Its been sitting for 5 years. It was operational when parked, exhaust was covered. The owner put a new battery in this spring. I haven't dug into it yet. But the previous owner was trying to get it running. He said its acting like he isn't getting any power to the coil. Im thinking maybe the key switch is bad? He said he cleaned the battery cables and stuff when he installed the new battery. Could a the voltage regulator be bad and cause no power to the coil? I'm thinking my boy and I will get time to dig into it Sunday. I'm looking for some ideas to save us some time and get the parts in advance if possible. I'm going to order a carb kit for it once I know I can get it running. Thanks for the help.
 
First thing I would do to it is give it an ATF treatment to free up the rings and valves. Fill the cylinders with ATF and put the plug back in then pour as much ATF down the exhaust as you can and let it sit a day or 3. Then pull the plugs and spin it over. Yes it will make a mess but well worth not breaking a ring or push rod. As for the ignition run a hot wire from the ignition side of the battery to the ignition side of the coil and see if you have spark then. Good chance the points will need to be cleaned up or replaced
 
The electrical system on that tractor is simplicity itself. Get yourself a test light or better yet a test meter, it will be cheaper in the end than guessing and buying parts.
Start at the coil and IF there is no power there work your way back to the origin which is the stud on the starter switch. Uf you have power to the coil the points are likely oxidized and need cleaned with a file or fine sand paper NOT emery cloth.
Was it sitting outside or inside? if outside make sure it isnt stuck.
 
Yes the tractor engine is loose and turns over with the starter. The tractor sat outside, but the muffler had always been covered. I took my test light and i have power going into the ignition coil. With the switch turned on should i get power coming out the middle of the coil going to the distributor? The distrubitor cap and rotor contacts have been cleaned up with sandpaper. I didnt have my spark plug test light with me. I will check into it more another day.
 
The middle wire "big wire" is the coil to distributor wire. There should be a smaller wire going from one side of the coil to the side of the distributor and the other smaller wire comes from the switch for power, you should have power at this wire with the switch on.
 
Sand paper leaves behind sand grit which cause the points to not conduct power so you need to use a piece of card board to clean that grit off
 
There is a good chance all it needs is to have the points cleaned. One time the B I use for snowplowing set over the summer and it was an especially humid summer and it wouldn't start in the fall when I was getting ready for winter. Points corroded.
 
A good tune up of the electrical system would work. Start with battery, make sure cables are clean and tight.
Check all your spark plug wires, a round piece of fine grit (600 +) sandpaper pencil shaped works for the distributor
also makes a fine point file (not the round piece.) some compressed air to clean things. (as old mentioned, cardboard a business card) and I
would use electrical terminal spray. or brake cleaner does a good job a clean rag and air will finish the job.
Kris
 
Thank you everybody for the advice. I did some more checking again tonight with my test light. With the switch on the have power going through the coil on the small wire, i have power inside the distributor before the condensor. I cleaned the point slightly. I put my test light on a spark plug wire and still no spark. What does the spark plug wire from the coil do that goes to the center of the distributor cap? Should i have power their when cranking tractor? Thanks for the help.
 
The plug wire from the coil to distributor provides high voltage spark to the distributor for the plugs. It will blow the bulb in your test light unless it's rated to check for spark. I would turn the engine by hand until the points are closed, then turn the ignition switch on so you have power to the points then take something like a popsicle stick or something plastic, do not use anything metal and quickly open and close the points. You should see a spark at the points while doing this. If you do as long as your cap, rotor, wires and plugs are in good shape you should get spark at the plugs.
 
If I do this as you say and don't have a spark at the points with the ignition switch on that means my coil is bad? I haven't tried it yet just running through things in my head. Thanks
 
Coil could be bad, but most likely it's the ignition switch. If you still have no spark with the switch on, run a temporary wire from the battery directly to the coil bypassing the switch to narrow it down
 
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