Allis b spluttering

Hi everyone, Iam a proud owner of an Allis b which I restored 4 years ago and is used for show purposes only. I recently went to it after it sitting for a few months and it?s now spluttering when throttle is opened up not too bad when idling. Just wondering before I start fiddling with mag timing and carb settings could it be it needs a good long run? In the 4 years since restoration it?s luckily if it?s done 2 hours running. Any advice much appreciated. This was just my first thought as I know these little Allis bs like to be hot.
 
Is the carb icing up?? If it is let it run longer so it heats things up and then try it. Or it could be as simple as a little bit of junk in the carb or a fuel flow problem. But any how trouble check then mess with things NEVER the other way around. so
#1 check that you have a good blue white spark at all the plugs that jump a 1/4 inch gap or more.
#2 pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in less then3 minutes. Also since ti has a fixed main jet pull the cover nut off th main jet and make sure you get a good steady flow of gas there.
#3 when was the last time you dumped the water and mud out of the air cleaner and fill with fresh oil
 
Thanks for your comment. Plugs have been checked and good. Plenty of flow through the carb and oil in air filter is good. Tank is clean and when emptying carb fuel flows nicely. My problem with only showing this tractor is it goes on the trailer for the show, comes off at the show, parades round a ring for 20 min then on the trailer for home then it?s back in the shed till the next show so it?s not done allot of hours since restoration or even got hot so I just wonder does it need a good run till hot to clear the system a bit.
 
One of the worst things one can do to an engine is run it for a short time then shut it down and do that to it all the time. They need to be run till good and hot and made to work or they will not run as they should
 
My '39 B wasn't running as smoothly as it did in the summer, so I adjusted the carb a wee bit and drove it around for an hour today. Much better.....me and the Allis!
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(quoted from post at 12:07:18 12/15/19) Hi everyone, Iam a proud owner of an Allis b which I restored 4 years ago and is used for show purposes only. I recently went to it after it sitting for a few months and it?s now spluttering when throttle is opened up not too bad when idling. Just wondering before I start fiddling with mag timing and carb settings could it be it needs a good long run? In the 4 years since restoration it?s luckily if it?s done 2 hours running. Any advice much appreciated. This was just my first thought as I know these little Allis bs like to be hot.

If it was running well before, leave the mag timing alone, it didn't just magically change by itself while the tractor was "resting".
 
I would not change anything as far as adjusting if it ran well before. Check the sediment bowl for water. Drain a pint of gas from the bottom of the carburetor to get fresh gas in it. Like Bob said, they don't adjust themselves.
 
Thanks everyone for your comments. The starting things are all there spark fuel and timing is all good. It certainly makes me think it needs a good run! Il get onto it. A good job to do in the Xmas holidays.
 
As was reminded by earlier post,Dell said to keep your itchy twitchy fingers off the twisties until you've run it abit
 
Could not a good run or it could be a fuel problem. My Oliver S88 would fire up and run fine but then fall on it's face and I had a fuel problem due to a bit of junk in the sediment bowl assemble inside the gas tank blocking off gas flow
 
Ok folks I?m loosing the will to live. Xmas holidays have arrived and decided today was the day to give her a good run...well that?s what I thought it didn?t end up that way. So I decided to fit brand new plugs then checked the gas flow to the carb all good in this area. Started her up and was lucky to get her running for 30sec then she would just stop. Would stutter something terrible. I removed all the plugs to check the gap. A couple were wrong but did notice that 3 and 4 were black 1 and 2 were clean like they hadn?t been burning. Next step was a gave the points a rub then put a spark plug tester on each plug and they were all working fine. I?m running out of options now and it?s so frustrating as everything worked so well till this year. Next time I?m at it il try and get a video of it running but any other ideas would be helpful.
 
Does it have an adjustable main jet at the bottom front of the carburetor? Or does it just have a plug in the front?
Here is what I found one of my carburetors after setting over the winter one spring in front of the main jet.
My guess now is you have fuel restriction from dirt of some type.

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That is where the main jet is located as shown in the second picture, Sometimes you can see dirt but sometimes you can't and it can have a spec of dirt inside the jet. Sometimes it can be cleared with a small wire like is on some paper tags. I have cleared that jet at tractor pulls without removing the carburetor with a wire I kept in my tool box.
 
Had a look at that nozzle today. After removing the cap there was no obvious dirt so will remove the nozzle. It just pulls out you don?t screw it out?
 
What I do when I have that problem on my C is take the cap off the main jet and then turn on the gas and let some gas flow out of the main jet. If it does not flow well I poke it out with a piece of wire or my torch tip cleaning tool.

The main jet screws out but more of the time you destroy the main jet before you get them to screw out
 
How do you remove this nozzle ,I thought possibly using a screw driver but it?s very tight and didn?t want to damage anything.
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Most of the time you damage those jets when you try to remove them and end up with bigger trouble. Spray it out real good with carb cleaner spray and then use a piece of wire to poke it out or as I do a torch tip cleaner tool and repeat a couple of times. Yes it can be removed but you Gun smith type screw drivers and many times heat to free them up. I have never removed them and had good luck doing it the way I said to
 
Ok folks well after an hour or so in the workshop I split the carb to see what was inside. Gave all the nozzles a good spray with carb cleaner and a good blow out with the airline. My worry was that I didn?t find anything obvious regarding dirt etc. But I went to observe the float and I have discovered I have a very sticky float needle! I make the point here that this carb was completely overhauled when i bought it and hasn?t done much but it?s possible it could have got sticky overtime.

To try and sort this I was going to spray some carb cleaner in and see how I go. Or does anyone have any other tricks they can tell me?
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If you notice the float needle has the ring on it for the float needle spring and with out that spring to pull the needle down when the float goes do yes it will stick. So if it was rebuilt who ever did the job left out the spring clip for the float/needle
 
Ok well I finally got a carb spring for my float as thanks to one of the members on here told me it was missing, much appreciated for your help! I just wondered now according to my pictures have I got the spring in the correct place as I can?t seem to get a good picture of one online to show me?
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