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D17 Brakes

D

dhermesc

Well-known Member
IS there a good "how to" video on changing brakes on a D17? I saw one recently where they got it about 1/3 of the way done then cut to the end and explained that they ended up using a torch to cut away some of the parts....

I need to get at least one working brake on this tractor.
 
Which version? There were two different versions. Early type was a external contracting shoe drum brake. Later ones were band/disc type.
 
Are you sure they just don't need to be adjusted/tightened up ?? Two different styles of brakes and two different ways to adjust them. What series is your tractor? or what year ??
 
Series 4 - with about 8000 hours and I doubt the brakes have ever been done on it. The adjustment is froze - both rods have been cut and welded shorter by the previous owner. What little braking it had left on the left brake is completely gone now - son ran it all day baling hay without realizing it was on.

I am assuming this will need a everything once its apart.
 
Both axle/final drives must be removed (one at a time). Start with the left side as it is the easier of the two. A torch will probably be needed to heat up the frozen brake rods for removal and to cut the top band pin into pieces to remove it. The hydraulic console on the right DOES NOT need to be removed !!! Just unbolt it from the fender bracket and place a prop under it to the platform to raise it up a couple of inches. Disconnect as much linkage as needed for the axle/final to slide out underneath it. Replace all four brake bands, all eight springs, and all four disc brake linings. Also replace the differential seal and Oring on the carrier. I flat rate the job at 8 hrs to do both sides. You must have a cherry picker or hoist to handle the axle/final. I have a hoist heavy enough to handle the tire with fluid and axle/final. For a beginner, I would remove the tire/wheel first.
 
I wish you were closer - I am only looking at doing the left side. I thought about paying local dealer to do it - they started talking at least $2000 plus any unexpected costs and I decided I would rather do it myself. Seems like a horrible design for something that is a normal wear part that needs changed on a somewhat regular basis.
 
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