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Hyd.

J

Jona

Member
I need some help again I got a D 17 Allis hydraulics three point wouldn?t go up and down so I thought it was low on oil but when I went to check out the
dipstick in that place where it was on other d 17 tractor there was a seal in it so I busted the seal out and filled it up with hydraulic fluid it ran for a while
but it seems like the fluid transfers to the differential hydraulic fluid, now that is over full ,did that seal need to be in there to pressurize the system?
 
You apparently now have a Series 3 model and the hyd dipstick and fill port is to the LEFT of the gearshift. Sounds like the internal lift ram is leaking and the hose that connects to it. If you don't use the hydraulics the oil transfer should stop. The transmission will be gaining oil if it is going down in the hydraulics.
 
If you have no external lift cylinders (like a series 4 does) you must drain all the oils from the transmission/hydraulic sumps, pull out the PTO shaft (3 bolts) and remove the lift arm housing and the seat suspension. The cylinder and hose are inside. A big job for me ?? No. A big job for a novice?? Maybe. All depends on what you are capable of.
 
This is a Sears?s 3
But how can I be sure that that?s true probulm,is there some way to veryfey this with out taking it apart?
Could I use a heavy # 120 oil would that help?🙁
 
You have two main oil compartments on that tractor. The dipstick to the LEFT of the gearshift is your hydraulic system. The dipstick to the RIGHT of the gearshift is your transmission/differential. If you are LOSING oil from the hydraulics into the transmission/differential only WHEN YOU USE THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM, the internal hose and cylinder packing are the only thing it can be. If you are transferring oil when not using the hydraulic system, there are shaft seals between the compartments that require splitting the tractor at the instrument panel to fix. You have to properly diagnose the problem before I can give accurate advice on how to repair. It is highly likely it is the hose and cylinder packing inside the lift arm housing. You'd think those parts would last longer than 55 years wouldn't you???
 
I think we?re on the right track it Hass to be that holes does anyone have a video as to how to fix that or some pictures I don?t have a manual anyway
thank you all I?m going to bed
 
Does anybody know where I can find a video to tear that transmission hydraulic system apart on the back of the D 17 that I have if any of you are experienced and would like to have a day or two vacation you could come and help me I'm 84 years old and can't hardly turn a wrench anymore anyway thanks for the help
 
Here are some photos of the hydraulic lift arms how do I go about attacking this problem and taking it apart and what will I find inside
 
Sorry I will try again
cvphoto26474.jpg


cvphoto26475.jpg
 
DrAllis, do I have to split the tractor to pull out the PTO shaft?
and after I pull off the back section will There be something in there I have to disconnect so I can pull it away from tractor to fix the hose?
I am ready to attack it.
I would appreciate the help thank you all. Jack
 
(quoted from post at 07:39:00 06/18/19) DrAllis, do I have to split the tractor to pull out the PTO shaft?
and after I pull off the back section will There be something in there I have to disconnect so I can pull it away from tractor to fix the hose?
I am ready to attack it.
I would appreciate the help thank you all. Jack
Click to expand...
The PTO shaft is removed by removing the 3 bolts that hold the seal and yank on it hard and it comes right out. Be sure to have all oil drained from the trans/differential and hand clutch compartments. I remove the seat assembly to allow more room. Disconnect the two steel hydraulic lines that are to the rear left of the seat. Remove the 2- 3/8" bolts that hold the right coupler manifold to the top of the lift arm housing. Pry or lift up this manifold and you'll see a hydraulic hose threaded into the manifold. Unscrew the manifold while holding the hose. Now you can remove all the bolts that hold the lift arm housing. Also remove two drawbar bail bolts. Your 3-point hitch might be in the way. The housing may require severe prying or pounding to get the gasket to let go. Pull backwards on the hsg and the cylinder rod will come out of the barrel. re-seal the barrel with AGCO seals correct for the s/n of the tractor and replace the hose with new. Use lots of grease when going back together on the seals. YOU WILL NEED HELP AS THIS IS HEAVY !!!
 
AND REMEMBER, YOU HAVE A DIPSTICK TO THE LEFT OF THE GEARSHIFT (2 1/2 GAL) AND ONE TO THE RIGHT OF THE GEARSHIFT(6 GAL) AND ONE UNDER THE GAS TANK ON THE RIGHT SIDE(2 1/2 G).
 
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