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Hydrouylics not working on Wd 45

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Duane Becker

Member
My wd45 has a dirt grading blade attached to the two arms coming down from the rams. Never had a problem with them lifting the grading blade until now. Will not lift. I'm going to check the hydraulic fluid, but when I does the rams have to be extended, and if so, with out being able to extend them with the hydraulics, can I simply pull them out, maybe by either taking the blade off or jacking the blade up?
 
Make sure there is oil on the dipstick first and if it isn't FULL, add oil and get it to raise and then re-check the oil level while in the raised position.
 
Think about it a minute. If it is not lifting due to being low on fluid the reading you get on the dipstick will be low with the cylinder not extended. If it reads low fill it up then see if it will lift. Then if it does lift fill it up with the cylinder extended simple as that
 

Post scrip: I went ahead and checked the fluid with rams down, none showing on the dip stick. Then I raised the rams by hand (lifted up the blade), checked dip stick and added fluid until it showed it was normal, about 2 cups. Blade raised fine, but now will not lower.
I do have a very small hydraulic leak, which is the result of the fluid being low, and this is the first time since late last year that I've used the tractor.
Whats the deal of it being stuck raised.
Sorry fellas, but I'm not that very good with basic mechanics. Trying to learn though.
 
First off you check it WRONG. You lifting the arm by hand did nothing for the fluid level. As for being stuck up there is a transport valve that is likely to have been closed by vibration etc. Little knob on the hyds you need to open so it will lover or the linkage is binding
 
yes, either that or you got the system air locked by lifting the cylinders by hand. Try working the hydraulics up and down several times.
 
The only reason they say to check the oil level with the rams extended is they want it to read full with the rams full of fluid. The system will work with less than this
but in the end you want it in the full range. You need to first get enough fluid in the system to work the rams and cycle them a few times to get the air out and then
extend them and check and add fluid to full.
 
Check the thumb screw on the control valve located on top of the hydraulic pump.
It can unscrew enough to prevent the control rod from moving the valve lever.
 
mvphoto34261.jpg


Thanks for the replys to this post, I really appreciate it. I should mention that over the winter I took the drawbar off to clean and eventually paint the underside of the tractor. I also left the linkage off that is shown in the photo here. Does this link rod need to be connected back to the drawbar control lever to work correctly. The other end actually broke off (rusted off) when I was taking the drawbar off.
Some where I remember reading these wd45 hydraulics and drawbar are supposed to work together. Not sure, but I thought I'd mention it.
 
(quoted from post at 02:30:07 04/10/19)
mvphoto34261.jpg


Thanks for the replys to this post, I really appreciate it. I should mention that over the winter I took the drawbar off to clean and eventually paint the underside of the tractor. I also left the linkage off that is shown in the photo here. Does this link rod need to be connected back to the drawbar control lever to work correctly. The other end actually broke off (rusted off) when I was taking the drawbar off.
Some where I remember reading these wd45 hydraulics and drawbar are supposed to work together. Not sure, but I thought I'd mention it.
Click to expand...

I also should mention that when the tractor is started the rams raise immediately, I still have my grading blade attached to the rams. Over about a day or so the rams will lower slowly on their own until the blade is on the ground. When restarting the tractor rams and blade go up.
 

Looks like you need too adjust the hydraulic linkage to get the system to work properly. Adjust linkage with lift lever all the way down.
 
The lever on the lower part of the hydraulic pump that connects to your currently removed linkage needs to be rotated counter-clockwise a bit and gently screw inward the thumbscrew into the divot on the side of the pump body. With things the way they are, the pump is in Traction Booster lift mode. On the side of the battery box or in the owners manual are instructions to set the pump for "HOLD" position work. In your case (because you have linkage removed) you must manually rotate the lower pump lever CCW to be able to line up with the divot to shut the pump down.
 
It looks like you have the control setting instructions on the side of
your battery box.
If they are unreadable, this is from the manual.
If you don't have a manual, you should get one;
there is a lot more information about the hydraulic
system in it.
mvphoto34272.jpg
 
In this case, with the linkage disconnected, the lever for screw "A" will have to be turned CCW to get the tip of screw "A" to mate with the divot on the side of the pump.
 
(quoted from post at 18:50:52 04/10/19) In this case, with the linkage disconnected, the lever for screw "A" will have to be turned CCW to get the tip of screw "A" to mate with the divot on the side of the pump.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all of the replies. I have found that the drawbar control lever must be hooked up to the link rod that goes to the drawbar. Once that is done, the hydraulics work as normal. But my link rod broke at the drawbar end. Looks like in two spots. Not sure how to get the connection off. Some one may have modified the connection in the past. Trying to get the old linkage off at the drawbar end so I can replace it, any idea how it comes off? Not sure but that looks like someones weld at the bolt head, I dont think that should be there. I took the nut off the bolt the left side of the the second pix, everything seems tight and doesn't move.
mvphoto34394.jpg

[/img]
mvphoto34395.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:19:49 04/13/19)
(quoted from post at 18:50:52 04/10/19) In this case, with the linkage disconnected, the lever for screw "A" will have to be turned CCW to get the tip of screw "A" to mate with the divot on the side of the pump. ******* That linkage doesn't have to be connected for the pump to operate correctly using "HOLD" position settings. If you follow my previous instructions about screwing in screw "A" into the divot, your pump will work fine. Some bozo has welded the eye to the adjustable stop bolt. I have no idea why anyone would do that. Anyway, without the weld being cut free and reconnecting the eyebolt and linkage, your Traction Booster system cannot operate at all. So, unless you are plowing or discing with a mounted implement, leave the pump settings for HOLD position and you'll be OK fine.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
(quoted from post at 01:29:08 04/14/19)
(quoted from post at 17:19:49 04/13/19)
(quoted from post at 18:50:52 04/10/19) In this case, with the linkage disconnected, the lever for screw "A" will have to be turned CCW to get the tip of screw "A" to mate with the divot on the side of the pump. ******* That linkage doesn't have to be connected for the pump to operate correctly using "HOLD" position settings. If you follow my previous instructions about screwing in screw "A" into the divot, your pump will work fine. Some bozo has welded the eye to the adjustable stop bolt. I have no idea why anyone would do that. Anyway, without the weld being cut free and reconnecting the eyebolt and linkage, your Traction Booster system cannot operate at all. So, unless you are plowing or discing with a mounted implement, leave the pump settings for HOLD position and you'll be OK fine.
Click to expand...

Thanks Dr Allis for the reply. I'm looking through the Agco Part online catalog to try and get the parts to replace that mess on the drawbar end. I wish I could get a picture of someones wd45 of this spot that has the correct factory parts so I can compare. Kinda hard with just that catalog diagrams.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
I'd be very surprised if you can buy any of those parts new anymore. It would take me all of 5 minutes to cut thru that blob of weld with a thin cutting disc, and then use a grinder to dress up the excess welding on the hex bolt head and the eyelet and then reassemble.
 
(quoted from post at 03:18:54 04/14/19) I'd be very surprised if you can buy any of those parts new anymore. It would take me all of 5 minutes to cut thru that blob of weld with a thin cutting disc, and then use a grinder to dress up the excess welding on the hex bolt head and the eyelet and then reassemble.
Click to expand...

Thanks Dr Allis, I'll get that weld cut off and finish up with grinder on bolt.
 

If the nut is not actually welded to the bolt, maybe a nut cracker on it and then chasing the threads would save it.
 
I've cut the weld through and got the pieces all disconnected. Notice the drawbar control rod at the drawbar end that has the eye bolt is broken off at the threads. Also the bolt that connects into the drawbar assembly is also broken off. I will get the broken piece out of the drawbar. I think I can get that bolt replaced.
Not sure of the eye bolt and threaded end-the thing that screws into the drawbar control rod.
Anyway trying to get this thing back to original. I'll get ahold of Agco Parts company tomorrow. Any used parts someone has laying around, I'd buy them from you.
mvphoto34434.jpg
 
There are thousands of these things in junk yards. Get with Bill Deppe at Deppe AC Parts in Maquoketa, Ia or Lad Benes at L&L Parts in Wells Mn. Both can set you up with what you need. Both are great guys.
AaronSEIA
 
Update on drawbar and hydraulics:
I have removed broken studs, bought a new bolt stud, a different eyebolt from Sandy Lake Imp. and within a day or so, I should have everything back on with drawbar connected to the hydraulics via the link rod. I'll post a picture when I'm done and might get some more tips from you all. Thanks again!
 
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