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D19 Gasser Overheat

N

Napper2.0

New User
Well here goes. I have a 1963 D19 gasser. I have removed the head, ground the valves and replaced the head gasket. I removed the radiator had it flushed and pressure tested. I have removed and inspected the water pump. The impeller spins with the pulley. I reinstalled with no leaks. I have replaced the radiator cap with proper 4psi replacement. I have replaced the thermostat with a 160F. I have replaced the temperature gauge and sender. There are no leaks in the cooling system.

The engine will run for several minutes then start to overheat, peg the temperature gauge to hot, and boil over. So I removed the thermostat and ran it without it. The engine ran fine for 30 mins without overheating but the temperature gauge never moved from the cold side. So I figured I had another bad thermostat and replaced it with a new 160F. Same story as before run for several mins, temp gauge peg to hot, and radiator boil over.

Any ideas on what could be wrong? I am running out of ideas.
 
Does it have a bypass on it? That could be the problem.The D19 I run now with a Gleaner 262 Combine engine in it was a chronic over heater when worked pretty hard,tried everything I could think of.Finally what worked for me was to take out the thermostat.plug the bypass on the water pump and added a 3 gallon tank that runs the lower radiator hose to the tank and then from the tank to the water pump.Doesn't run hot anymore and works for me as I don't use the tractor much just use it to load hay bales and put a ripper on to tear up deer plots.
 
Does the thermostat have a bleed hole in the valve to let the air out when filling as well as pass some coolant which will warm and open the thermostat quicker?
 
Thank you for your response. It does have a bypass from the waterpump to the bottom of thermostat housing. What did you use for your 3 gallon tank, where did you put it, and how did you route the hoses. I can only guess you didn't use 2 inch radiator house for the plumbing? Thanks again for all your information!
 
No bleed hole that I can see. Someone else suggested drilling a 1/16 hole in thermostat flange to let trapped air through when it is closed. What are
your thoughts on that idea?
 
Used a new hydraulic oil tank I bought at an auction mounted on the left front side up near the radiator,ran flex hoses to hook it all up.Pretty jack leg but it works and since I
don't use the tractor much didn't want to get into some major work on it.The D19 always did run warm if pulled hard think they needed a little more cooling capacity.
 

Drill a hole so it will vent and let coolant pass by and warm the thermostat quicker. Are the valve openings in your replacement thermostats as large as the original? Small openings will slow the flow.
 
I will give that a try. As far as the opening size on the original thermostat, that is unknown since there was not one in there when I bought it. I cross referenced numbers for the original thermostat part number and matched to a current Napa variety.
 
Looking at your first post on this tractor,you said you bought it with suspected head and or gasket problems? Did you have the head checked for cracks? How do the water jackets look, full of rust or sediment?
What happens when you run without the cap on and watch for flow in the radiator? Have you verified the timing is correct?

Tens of thousands of these tractors worked day in day out with what the factory provided.
Something is not right with it.
 
The inside of the water jacket was a little crusty when I had the head off. I blew it out with compressed air and verified flow through all the opening. I am going to warm it up today drain all the water and give it a vinegar soaking just to clean it up some more. I've had everything checked out that you suggest other than the timing. I drilled a couple of holes in the thermostat and ran it outside for 30 mins from idle to full throttle. The temperature gauge never went above about 140. So it looks to me to be a success.
 
The inside of the water jacket was a little crusty when I had the head off. I blew it out with compressed air and verified flow through all the openings. I am going to warm it up today drain all the water and give it a vinegar soaking just to clean it up some more. I've had everything checked out that you suggest other than the timing. I drilled a couple of holes in the thermostat and ran it outside for 30 mins from idle to full throttle. The temperature gauge never went above about 140. So it looks to me to be a success.

It seems to run well, arts right up, idles go to full throttle, and shuts of by turning the key with no die selling or backfires. Any easy way to check the timing? I don't have a timing light.
 
If you haven't had the distributor out it is likely ok. But, you should verify the advance weights move freely. If you don't have a light borrow one from a buddy or auto parts store that loans tools. Since I've been in your position with no timing light before, I've gotten by just advancing the distributor with engine at idle until the engine just starts to labor a bit. Then check by restarting the engine and if it doesn't buck against the starter it's pretty close. Again,this is just to get you by. But to rule timing out as a cause of your overheating you really need to time it by light.
 
That engine is a high compression engine and needs to be timed using a timing light. Set the hand throttle at WIDE OPEN and adjust timing to 25 degrees BTDC. Once this is achieved, idle the engine down and the timing should be near TDC with engine at 400 RPM. This will verify whether the centrifugal advance mechanism is working (or not). Anyone who thinks they can correctly adjust the ignition timing on one of these engines without a timing light is fooling themselves. This engine will actually detonate like a car if the timing is too advanced.
 
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