AC 160 leak

I have an Allis Chalmers 160. Have a leak from both sides of the lower draft sensing linkage. I haven't been able to find any of the seals that I need to fix this. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

Tell us where have you already checked that you didn't find any of the seals? It will save some time, and wasted suggestions of places you have already checked.

Yesterday?s tractor, Steiner, google. Can?t find anything by part
number. Checked mostly the sites that have came up on a
google search.

Your reply isn't showing in the Modern view at present, but is in Classic.

You are likely going to need to go to an AGCO dealer to get those. Since you don't mention checking with a dealer, it sounds you don't have one you use. Sandy Lake Impliment (724-376-2489) is one to try. They are very good on AC parts.

You don't say the area where you are located. If we had that info it might get you the name of a dealer close to you.

That?s for the reply. My dad had previously tried AGCO
dealers but I will try that again. I am in southern New Mexico
and my dad had tried at dealers in Missouri. But I will call
around. Hadn?t thought of going back to the dealer angle.

Brenda at Sandy Lake has helped many people out when others couldn't. Also she will likely be able to find out if the numbers have been superseded or substituted, which might not show in the catalog.

If you pull a seal, be very cautious about how it comes out and look for the numbers on it. If you get that far and find the numbers, most everyone can order the seal, even your local auto parts store.

If it has no numbers, use a micrometer to get the shaft dimension, then outer dimension and the thickness. With those, you can use the Timken catalog online to find out what the number will be, then ask for it by number. We have the ability to get most, but you'll find any NAPA store will likely be able to cross-reference it and have it from one their distribution centers in 24 hours. It's probably not cost-effective to go through a tractor store for common hardware unless they stock it.

If you really want to be cautious, read the Timken catalog technical section and look for the exact profile and material suited to the application. I don't do that, but if it were high PSI involved, I might think twice. Seals are also manufactured for specific fluids so that might be an issue, I haven't run into any problems.

If worst comes to worst, you can go for the closest thickness you can find in the Timken catalog, because sometimes, they won't have the exact profile or thickness, yet the seal you get will likely still work. I went through that when I was rebuilding the D-14 steering box. The original lower seal doesn't exist now, it simply isn't available, it's an oddball dual seal that is about 3/4 inch thick. But the diameters involved are common and it's a non-pressurized application. I just put two quarter inch common seals in and filled the gap and it sealed up well and blocks dirt buildup at the lower seal.

My point here is that seals tend to be common hardware, and it just takes research to get that number that identifies the original or a workalike part.

Another important topic related to this are speedi-sleeves. Those are also listed in the Timken PDF or possibly it was a companion catalog they have. When you are working with old iron, those can be a lifesaver.

Good points. I agree with you that lip seals can be matched up or work arounds found. It will be great if you can help him with the seals. As you posted it looks like matching will need to be done by either by numbers he might find on the seals or by measuring them, if he doesn't go to a dealer. I tried finding/crossing the seal numbers in Timken, Federal/National and SKF/CR. Only one of these is described as a lip seal in the 160 parts catalog. At the risk of being wrong I think some of the other "seals' may be O-rings or synthetic rings, possibly not lip seals. Maybe a hydraulic shop could match them. #31 is called out as a "lip seal", #21 is "felt seal", #24 is "seal, bearing", and #24 is just called out as "seal".

The other thing we don't know is can the tractor be down while parts are searched for/matched up vs having the parts in hand to try to minimize downtime.

I bet you're right. That o-ring shown there might be the culprit. I'd probably pull the arm, then the plate and see. If that o-ring goes on the outside of the bushing, that may be tough to refresh.

I don't have the experience with the 160 (too new for me ;-)), I just wanted to make sure he realized if a seal is the problem, it's usually not hard to get one from very normal sources with a little research. I've found myself pretty frustrated with seals in the past before I realized that.

Looks like he's virtually down already with that quantity of oil on the floor.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I have feel like I may have some success now. I will start with dealers and if that isn?t any help then I will pull it apart and look for numbers and get some measurements. I?ll let you all know how it goes. Thanks again.