model B brake drums

Pilot199

Member
When replacing the pinion shaft & brake drums on a '39 model B, what is the best way to put the drum in position? Can it be heated in order to slide it on or must it be pressed on?

Also, is there anything special about installing the oil seal on the pinion shaft, such as the way it faces? I ask this because the seal on mine was gone when I opened it up. I'm suspecting that the people I bought the tractor from had done a fast repair on the final drive at some point & left the seal off.

Any help is appreciated.

Gary
 
(quoted from post at 04:02:39 05/08/15) When replacing the pinion shaft & brake drums on a '39 model B, what is the best way to put the drum in position? Can it be heated in order to slide it on or must it be pressed on?

Also, is there anything special about installing the oil seal on the pinion shaft, such as the way it faces? I ask this because the seal on mine was gone when I opened it up. I'm suspecting that the people I bought the tractor from had done a fast repair on the final drive at some point & left the seal off.

Any help is appreciated.

Gary

Gary, as I remember the drum should be a snug sliding fit, heating it would make it easier to slide on. The seal on the pinion keeps oil out of the brake area, so the seal lip will be facing the brake drum, the open side of the seal will face the gears.
Bill B
 
The drum is a slip fit. I have never heated them. I use a length of pipe to slide over the shaft and tap it on with a big hammer. The big hammer is not because I needed to hit real hard but to cover the hollow end of the pipe so I can hit square.
 
OK gentlemen thanks for the info.

While we're on the subject, what's the best way to get the old race out of the pinion shaft end cap?

I was thinking of placing it face down with the outside edges spanning 2 blocks, then warming the outside of the cap with the torch until the race drops out.

Any ideas?

Gary
 
If it needed replaced I would probly try that first before using a cut off disc on a dermal. I have never found one that needed replaced. When all new bearings are installed the cap would need shimmed to keep them from being tight as was done at the factory. Removing shims have brought any I have worked on back to spec.
 
I thought that I'd change all of them since I had all new parts & the drive opened up anyway, but looking at the race I don't see any pitting, just some discolored spots here & there.

The cap came off with 4 shims & it's my intention to put them all back.

Thanks again for the advice Dick.

Gary
 

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