Welcome! Please use the navigational links on your left to explore our website.

Company Logo Shop Now
   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
 
Marketplace
Classified Ads
Photo Ads
Tractor Parts

Community
Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Tractor Town
Your Stories
Show & Pull Guide
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Galleries
Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Articles
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs
Glossary

Miscellaneous
Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

Related Sites
Tractor Shed
Ford 8N/9N Club
Kountry Life
  
Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
:

1950 B

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author  [Modern View]
VA Kelly

04-19-2015 16:13:08




Report to Moderator

OK- I'm gonna provide the information given to me by my 86 year-old father over the phone: He has a 1950 A-C B, that he had converted to a 12 volt. After 10-15 minutes of running, it would shut down, and not restart for several minutes. Someone told him that the 12 volt conversion was overheating the electrical system,and that he needed to put a resistor in, and that person put one in, and the tractor has not started since.It cranks, but won't turn over. I live 3 hours away from my dad, and I am determined to get this thing running for him while I still have him in my life. I have never worked on a tractor, and I don't even know where the resistor would be put in the electrical system. If anyone could give me any advice on where to start my quest to fix his tractor, it would be greatly appreciated. I have replaced starters, alternators, distributors,etc, on cars and trucks, so I do have a basic understanding of how to identify these parts. Help!!

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
steve(ill)

04-22-2015 19:09:58




Report to Moderator
 Re: 1950 B in reply to VA Kelly, 04-19-2015 16:13:08  
basically works like he car your talking about. Look at the coil. If it is an old 6 volt, throw it and the resistor away and install a new 12 volt...... Run the tractor and if it dies, check gas flow into the carburetor.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
wbecker

04-20-2015 06:51:54




Report to Moderator
 Re: 1950 B in reply to VA Kelly, 04-19-2015 16:13:08  
Doc is correct that a 1950 B would have a magneto from the factory, but it could have been changed to distributor.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Dick L

04-20-2015 14:53:59




Report to Moderator
 Re: 1950 B in reply to wbecker, 04-20-2015 06:51:54  
From the factory yes, but I have a distributer on my one 1938. Dad put a distributer on his Allis Chalmers C in the mid 1950's. After 60 years it would be hard to tell which it has without seeing it.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
JMS/.MN

04-20-2015 09:46:12




Report to Moderator
 Re: 1950 B in reply to wbecker, 04-20-2015 06:51:54  
Factory use of distributor started in 1953, sn123996.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Plant Doc

04-20-2015 04:24:45




Report to Moderator
 Re: 1950 B in reply to VA Kelly, 04-19-2015 16:13:08  
My guess is the B has a magneto and the problem has nothing to do with the 12v conversion but it has a carb or gas flow problem.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Dick L

04-20-2015 12:42:30




Report to Moderator
 Re: 1950 B in reply to Plant Doc, 04-20-2015 04:24:45  
Why would anyone put a resister on if it didn't have an external coil? Then what would you wire it to?



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Dick L

04-19-2015 18:43:47




Report to Moderator
 Re: 1950 B in reply to VA Kelly, 04-19-2015 16:13:08  
My guess would be that the coil got cooked before the resistor was put on. Probly could maybe get a coil that didn't need the resistor and loose the resistor.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
VA Kelly

04-19-2015 17:35:43




Report to Moderator
 Re: 1950 B in reply to VA Kelly, 04-19-2015 16:13:08  
thanks to all of you for your help. I'm heading back down to my dad's in 2 weeks, and I definitely have a few starting points to work with. Thank you!!!



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
old

04-19-2015 17:18:42




Report to Moderator
 Re: 1950 B in reply to VA Kelly, 04-19-2015 16:13:08  
I would start by checking for spark. You need a good blue white spark at all 4 plug and it has to jump a 1/4 inch gap or more. If you have that then pull the carb drain plug and make sure you get a good steady flow of gas for 3 minutes. Catch the gas to look for dirt/water in it. If you have poor or no spark hot wire it from the battery to the ignition side of the coil and try running it. If it runs then and runs for a long time then the problem is from the coil back to the battery. If it still dies after say the 15 minutes or so check that the coil is not super hot. If hot good chance it needs to be replace and that is a good time to put a true 12 volt coil on that says NO external resister needed and be done with it

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
wbecker

04-19-2015 17:13:36




Report to Moderator
 Re: 1950 B in reply to VA Kelly, 04-19-2015 16:13:08  
It depends on what was done during the 12V conversion, and did this problem start right after the conversion.

If it started right after the 12V conversion it would need a resistor if still using the same 6V coil. The resistor would most likely be bolted to one of the coil bracket bolts, it's a white ceramic looking thing. If a 12V coil was installed it may not need a resistor, depends on what 12V coil was installed.

Another cause would be junk in the gas tank slowing the fuel flow. It would run for a time but the carb float bowl would get lower till it stopped. Then after a short time the float bowl would fill and run again. To check, remove the fuel line at the carb and see it fuel flows at a good rate.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
dinselm95

04-19-2015 16:59:07




Report to Moderator
 Re: 1950 B in reply to VA Kelly, 04-19-2015 16:13:08  
Might try switching the 2 wires around on the resister. I had the same problem with my c farmall and it turned out to be the problem. If not I'd get a test light. Flip the switch on and start from the back and work my way to the front.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Today's Featured Article - ... [Read Article]

Latest Ad: Need a grill guard for a 8n ford [More Ads]

Copyright © 1997-2020 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy

Binary file (standard input) matches