'36 WC with twin draulic loader

There is a "36 WC on the farm in MN that has been in the family since "37. It has a aftermarket trip bucket loader on it supposedly installed in 1946. Loader has a PTO powered pump with a control lever and 2 large cylinders (about 2-1/2" dia rods and total OD maybe 4"). What I remember my Dad (passed 2yrs ago) telling me about them long ago is they have pump packing for seals. These things always leaked a bit and once in a while, Dad would put a pair of pipe wrenches on and tighten the big nut at the top. He used to use 50wt motor oil too. I"ve been using the loader around the farm on occasion and the leaking from one cylinder in particular is pretty out of hand. Darn near a steady stream sometimes. The nut does not want to tighten anymore and I am supposing that the packing material is simply worn away. Is there any guideline info as to what is in these things and how to take this apart and where would I get the "rope" or whatever goes in there? Is this a big project or am I better off buying 5gal of oil and trying to keep ahead of the leaking for the few times I use this?
 
I had a Midwest loader and it used what looked like Pump leather except it had about a one inch hole for the rod to go on. One time the tube got rust pits in it and I sawed off the bottom and reversed the tube and welded it back.
 
Having rebuilt many hydraulic cylinders there's not to much to any of them. You can find something that will work no matter what was originally used. Im guessing that's probably a fairly low pressure system unlike most early ac stuff . The packing can look like a a rope or leather and have neoprene replace it as long as the dimensions are right.if u want to do it yourself it just takes time and measuring. A good hydraulic shop should be able to take care of it for under $200/ cylinder.
 
Couple of pictures of the tractor and loader.

2 summers ago. Good view of the whole loader and the pump.
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Detail of the end of the cylinders. That "can" threads onto the end of the "pipe". It is some sort of casting so far I can tell as there is a mold parting line. There is a "nut" at the top that threads into the can. I would imagine that this rope stuff must be under the nut.
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I have no idea about what sort of pressures this thing uses. I do know its not especially powerful at lifting (maybe pump worn). However, over its working life, it loaded MANY tons of manure into the spreader and field rocks to the fence line. Just this past weekend I was using it to haul off some debris and pull old posts from a tumbling down hay bunk.

Those leaking cylinder ends are strategically placed so when you are driving and the wind is blowing the right direction, you get oil in the face, haha.



Jeff
 
Baum Hydraulics in Omaha will have packing for that. Back the nut out and pick the seals out. Try for a chevron type seal with the od and id of the opening you picked the seal from. They will come in a set and if you can't get the cylinder apart, you can cut them on an angle with a razor blade and offset all the cuts, wrap it around the rod and slide together, tighten the nut not real tight and work cylinder and retighten til leak stops. Have done lots of them.
 
They're probably a 3" cylinder from your description. The lifting power would be alot more im sure if the cylinders were repacked. Usually if the rams leak outside the inside is internally leaking horribly.does the loader drift down?. If so your piston seals are out too. If you take them apart you should be able to find replacment parts that will work. If all else Google hydraulic cylinder parts and you will find many places that can supply modern seals by size and type..
 
Those appear to be single acting cylinders with the hydraulic oil entering at the bottom. Typically there should be packing at the end of the ram and little or no oil should be getting past it to the top end of the cylinder to leak past the packing. If oil is getting past the ram packing into the top end of the cylinder then without a return line at the top of the cylinder there is no place for the oil to go other than to push past the packing at the top of the cylinder every time you raise the loader. I would take one cylinder off and completely dismantle it to properly find replacement seals and packing that you need.
 

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