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Allis Chalmers Discussion Forum
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D17

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wingswd

12-20-2012 17:55:31




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I"m afraid I know the answer, but I"m going to ask any way. I guess 80psi of compression is not enough 226 engine to fire. I"m at a loss. I drove this tractor into my shop, ran a little weaker than I thought it should. I thought a valve job would help bring back it"s youth. Lapped the valves everything looked great. 1St head gasket and only 30 psi compression. Had the head decked 2nd gasket and now I"m up to 80 psi. Yes valves are set right. Blow down test sounds like the head gasket. I"m just thinking out loud before I break this tractor in half and rebuild this engine. Any one have any thoughts.

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daves40acre

12-23-2012 00:25:48




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 Re: D17 in reply to wingswd, 12-20-2012 17:55:31  
I have a d17 and I have split mine 3 times this is the last time. When I got my tractor it had no oil pressure and ran great. Long story. try the atf in cylinder, rings stuck? should run on 80psi, is it getting enough gas, ignition time right? And yeah it will need to be split if removing engine, its not hard but you will need help, it takes three people,stands, motor to split. If you like the tractor and want to keep it you might want to go through it. Just an idea.

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EricB

12-22-2012 21:39:59




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 Re: D17 in reply to wingswd, 12-20-2012 17:55:31  
Did you just buy this tractor? Do you have any running history of the engine? Unless it's been overheated you're not likely to have warpage. I've had A-C 201 engines with as low as 60 to 65 psi compression that start easy and run OK. You wouldn't notice a lack of power (from low compression) unless you put it to real work. I suggest you try all the easier options before pulling the engine out.



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mcclaar

12-21-2012 07:37:34




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 Re: D17 in reply to wingswd, 12-20-2012 17:55:31  
Just a thought. Could the valve springs be a little weak?



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steve(ill)

12-20-2012 18:21:51




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 Re: D17 in reply to wingswd, 12-20-2012 17:55:31  
should run at 80 psi, but not good. low compression is valves or rings. Pour 2 spoons full of trans fluid into each cylinder and then check compression. Oil will seal up the rings if thats a problem. Trans fluid will help unstick if they are dragging, but not worn out. If that dont work--- its the head gasket or vavles not set.



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wingswd

12-20-2012 18:33:58




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 Re: D17 in reply to steve(ill), 12-20-2012 18:21:51  
I now anything is possible, But what are the odds of a warped deck on a tractor that ran.



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old

12-21-2012 09:07:21




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 Re: D17 in reply to wingswd, 12-20-2012 18:33:58  
How big is the ridge at the top of the sleeves??? If it is very big at the very least I would try a set of new rings. Also if you take the head back off check for side to side slap on the pistons as in try to move them side to side and if they move much if any the rings are pretty much gone. With the head off you can also do a leak down test with ATF. Pour in say a 1/2 cup in each cylinder and let it sit a day and try to note how much you loose to the oil pan in a day. If you loose much then you got rings that are AWOL

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Wingswd

12-21-2012 14:41:18




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 Re: D17 in reply to old, 12-21-2012 09:07:21  
Wasn"t much of a ridge. Just looking when the head was off did not show me much to worry about. It never smoked a lick. I guess I can get the pan off without splitting it(it"s a wide front). My big worry, that is also the pain in my rear is to get the deck checked for straight, Because I don"t think I can get this engine out with out splitting it. Let me know if you think I can or know any tricks. I guess in the big scheme of thing this is why we do this. If it was easy it wouldn"t be fun. And after all its almost Christmas, and our health and happiness are more important than a tractor not running.

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old

12-21-2012 17:40:45




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 Re: D17 in reply to Wingswd, 12-21-2012 14:41:18  
With the head off it is pretty easy to check to make sure the block is true with a simple straight edge and use that to check it. And yes you can pull the pan with out splitting it but no way to pull the block with out since that is part of the frame



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BushogPapa

12-22-2012 12:20:20




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 Re: D17 in reply to old, 12-21-2012 17:40:45  
I know that Lapping was an accepted way or re-conditioning the valves in the past... If there was much pitting or recession, you can end up with a "Seat 1/4" wide... That will only trap carbon and Leak.. I would advise having a good Valve Job done while you are at this..and install Umbrella-style (Ford) Valve seals on the Intakes..(Yea, Yea, I KNOW they "Didn't come with them"..put then ON anyway)..!!!

Is there something that leads you to think the Head Gasket IS leaking..?? Foaming in the radiator, or something..??

Possible, the top Compression rings have been shattered, by use of Ether.... Cast Iron Rings WILL shatter if pre-ignition is encountered...Something to be aware of.. Nodular-Iron Rings are Ductile and will NOT shatter, like Cast... Always check to KNOW what you are getting.. Ron..

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wingswd

12-23-2012 20:59:33




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 Re: D17 in reply to BushogPapa, 12-22-2012 12:20:20  
story is I've had this tractor for a long time, It started running a little weak And had a small pop in the muffler. determined it to be a vacuum leak on the manifold. #3 was lean, that was it. While I had it apart I decided to do a valve job on it. that is were all this started



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