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Re: One more question...

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03-25-2000 15:11:00

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Ok, here goes. First, a word of warning - this is not a live power tractor. You must have the clutch pushed in and the tractor motion stopped to engage the power unit. Tractor stopped and clutch in, the lever wit hthe loop on the end (made of about 1/4" rod) is the engagement lever - pull it up. Then let out the clutch, and the belt / pto /hydro unit will work. You cannot run the hydro without the belt pulley and PTO spinning, so please be careful. Next, if you have a pto powered item, be aware that this is not an overrunning cluth system - if you push in the clutch, the PTO item's inertia will drive the PTO and continue to move the tractor. Same with the belt pulley. An overrunning clutch adaptor is available for the PTO and highly recommended. FYI, there are two different PTO shaft sizes - if you have the small one there is an adaptor (al splined sleeve, about $6) that converts this to the regualr one (which came on later tractors). The hydro unit runs a small single acting cylinder. The samll rod on the bracket is the hydro control. Pull up to extend the cylinder and down to release. As far as a back blade, there is a rock shaft that sits between the fenders in the rear (normally used on the plow) that can be used to litf things. There is a 3-point kit available for about $350 that lets you used modern stuff. You also can mount a light blade on the front (my spare B has this set up), and weighted tires with chains will give you amazing traction. By the way, if you don't want the PTO / Belt ?hydo, let me know ... I'll buy it from you. I have the correct cover to replace it. FYI, my spare tractor uses a power steering pump and a hydraulic valve to give power up and down on the blade - very handy for grading work).

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