Allis Model B

RLA

Well-known Member

My son in law picked up a A/C B off Ebay.
He brought it to me to check it over & get
it ready to haul Fire Wood. ( I'm John Deere
guys so Don't hold it against me. ) Over-all
I believe he did OK, after all I told him about
the tractor on Ebay. I've been waiting for him
to get me a manual but in the mean time I have
a couple questions...

The Neg battery cable to the Starter, is this
cable supose to run in a Loom over top the tool
box & Under the fuel tank?

It has a Straight frt axle insted of a Wish
bone type I've seen on most, is it supose to
have a axle that looks like a CA type?

When adjusting the clutch, I adjusted this
one so the fingers to clear the T/Out brg by
1/4" it feels much better & Works much better
but I'd to know If my adjustments are Close?

It looks like a major Job to replace the
Brakes?? I can get the wheels to slide & I've
adjusted them as far as I can turn the screw.
Did they ever have GREAT brakes?

Thanks in Adavance... I promise the Manual
is coming.
 
All the battery cables I have seen on them B/C ran under the tool box area.
The front axle could have been an option or it could also be a pure mutt made form a couple of tractors like a C or CA or B or even be an IB
Brakes are pretty much like all tractor brakes your lucky if they work real well more or less to slow one down and that is about it
 
Yep all the other smaller wires or at least that is what is on the ones I have been around. But also many have had the battery cables moved over the years so easier to work with. My C has them all out in the open
 
The brakes on a model B are a band that is accessed through a cover inboard of the fender. There should be an adjuster on top with the bands below it. Unlike the brakes on many tractors, and cars, are not where you pull the the wheel off, but, up on the axle. It may be difficult getting the pins out, which I usually simply cut the pins and replace them.
 
Is there a piece of tin formed into a channel, fastened under the steering tube? I'd have to go look, but I recall something like that, that the bat. cable runs through.
On my B&C all other wires run in the crevice, on the right side, formed where the "tool box" area meets the torque tube.
On the B those wires are exposed to any wear and tear from things in the tool box.
On the C they fastened a little strip of tin to the side of the tool box, forming a cover over that area.
The B was produced for about 20 years. They were making constant little changes. Then owners continued that trend!
 
I have a 1948 B and mine has an adjustable width wide front axle on it. Not too many came with it but if you have that, you have one you don't see every day. I just did a valve job on mine last year and is a smooth running tractor! Hand y little tractor. Good luck with it and have fun.
 
Well Thanks Bob & OLD, I think that makes
sense about Hand crank storeage, However The battery cable is now running through that square trough below the steering shaft housing.. It seems to work well there for now & I have it
insulated with a piece of garden Hose..
The rest of the wires I ran through a plastic loom & then Under the battery tray. It maynot be correct but it is much better than it was. Now
has NO exposed wires...
On Saturday I install new heat gauge, Muffler, & he purchased new Lights for the frt. He didn't get the Good Ones. but they work & Look OK. He
also got a Owner's Guide, Not a Manual but I guess I adjusted the clutch pretty close. The tractor purrs like a Kitten With all new Fluids. Charges well & I believe about ready to Haul Fire wood. Only thing thats left is R/F wheel bearings & Seal. One thing I surely didn't know Was the Oil type for the trans, I would have
bet all the tea china it would be 80w90.. &
I would have lost...

Thanks for the Help Guys!
 
Ya the transmission/rear end/ hyds all use the same sump so the oil it a good bit thinner then the gear lube. My self I use UTF in them
 
make sure you change the oil in both final drive pans also. Some overlook that. NIce to get new oil in there and the gears throw it up on the top bearings. Old thick goo will not do that and eventually you will loose a top bearing in final drive.
 
You know I was reading the manual for mine, and it actually says that the transmission is 20w, but, I think that has to do with what was avaliable at that time. I also went with 80w90.
 

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