All Crop 60... Concave replacement

I find myself in a bit over my head. I had an allis 60 combine that had the clean grain elevator bottom rotted out on and the tailing auger trough was rotten also. I bought a 66 from a buddy that was in great shape except that the concave was rotten. Silly me... I thought I would be able to pull out the cylinder on my 60 and my 66.... swap the concaves and slap it all back together. This weekend I pulled the bin and the clean grain elevator off the 66 and also pulled off the outside door/ bearings on the real side of the cylinder. I'm looking at the rest of what I've gotten into and I'm looking for some encouragement and/or direction on how to proceed forward...

How do I actually get the cylinder out? I pulled the nut off the pulley side and took the tension off the belt. I put some heat on it and I figure that the pulley will come off eventually. But do I need to take the speed adjustment assembly off to get the cylinder out?

When I do get that done... do I drill / grind out the rivets holding the old concave in place? Do I then rivet in the new one or do I get some kind of domved machine screw?

Any other advice on how to make this as simple a project as possible?

Is the Cylinder and Concave of a 60 and a 66 the Same length..??
Never ran a 66, always figured it would slug real bad cutting Clover Seed...it sounds bad enough with the 60..!!

Ron..

Is the Cylinder and Concave of a 60 and a 66 the Same length..??
Never ran a 66, always figured it would slug real bad cutting Clover Seed...it sounds bad enough with the 60..!!

Ron..

There is a panel on the left side of the thresher housing that allows removal of the cyl. Haven"t looked at mine, but I assume you need to strip everything off the right end to withdraw the cyl. IIRC, the cyl on the 60 and 66 are the same- the header is 6 inches wider on the 66- note the flare in the sheet metal. It narrows to the rear to match the cyl. If you took off the grain bin, it should be easy to work on the right end of the cyl. I don"t understand what you mean by the real (REEL?) side of the cyl.

Those concaves you do not have to remove anything else to replace, works better if you do have the cylinder bars removed tho and you should probably replace them while doing the concaves. The concave is a piece of rubber held down with a Z shape piece of steel that is bolted in, no rivits as they are ment to be replaced at same time as the bars and that is when the rubber is wore off the bars, usualy bent from stones as well. You can do both jobs setting in front of the cylinder with a helper under the machine to handle the bottom end of the bolts. Now if you are small enough as I was 40-50 year ago you just crawl into the sepperator area from the left side to do the bars and concaves. But then you still need that helper to either hand you items or handling the nuts on the bolts under the machine and they should be a cariage bolt head in the concaves. They used to make replacement cylinder bottom liners that fastened in with the concave bolts. Yaz all crop should have all the needed parts for the 66 or the 60 to fix up both.

IIRC, remove bolts around the perimeter of the round plates which hold the cylinder bearings, remove some pieces which control the speed changer, and the whole cylinder assembly slides out the left side. The plate for the inner bearing is a smaller diameter and slips through the outer hole. No need to remove the pulley from the shaft.

Thresher and separator component parts for the 60, 66, & 72 are mostly interchangeable.