D-17 engine overhaul

Is it possible to rebuild the engine without splitting the tractor? 1963 D-17 Series 3
Or is it easier to just go ahead and slit it?

Second question...where is best place to get rebuild kit?

Thanks!

If you want to do it right and replace the crank seals, esp the rear seal, you'll need to split the tractor and pull the whole engine out and put it in a stand to work on it. You'll likely want to have block hot tanked too while you are at it to clean it up good for new sleeves.

Engine kits are available from many sources including this site. Note though that most sites sell a 4 1/8 overbore kit that is really for WD45 engines as it is 6.5:1 compression (i.e. WD45) and not 7.25:1 (D17) and you will lose a few HP even though you get a few more cu in.

Only AGCO sells correct 4 inch engine kits with correct power crater pistons with correct compression ratios - 7:25 (D17, early E combine), 8:1 (170, later E & EIII combines) and 8:25:1 (175). Some sites sell and aftermarket kit the label as high compression by putting WD (4 inch stroke) pistons in it but they don't document the compression. AGCO kits are more expensive and do not include bearings (main, rod or cam) or valve parts and you have to buy those separately. It ends up being nearly twice as much from AGCO but it's the best stuff.

I just overhauled my D17 Series IV and used a 175 (8.25:1) AGCO kit and got my bearings cheaper from another vendor. Also - the AGCO gasket set in the AGCO engine kit is better than the aftermarket gasket sets in my opinion. More items and better gaskets (not that the aftermarket ones are bad).

I didn't have to re-do my head as it it been done about 100 engine hours prior (long story). Some of the non-AGCO kits do include the valve stuff too so if funds are an issue and you don't mind a few HP drop the aftermarket kit is a better deal.

Mike

Pull it, that way everthing goes back inspected and clean. I did an inframe for a guy once on a 17 series 4, I told him the main seals should be changed, their ok, leave them alone, I told him the clutch may only lack a thousand or so of being shot, nothing wrong with the clutch, it works fine, just overhaul the $%*&$ motor, leave everthing elso alone. Guess what, two days later, he called, what did you do to my clutch, as soon as I drop the plow it slips.

Notice any difference in the D17? What's your fuel? 10% or more ethanol? Any knocking?

Noticeable difference after putting in the 4 inch 8:25: 1 175 kit vs the 4 1/8 6.5:1 WD45 kit that was in in it. I did not change the carb/governor spring to the 175 spring.

Using 87 octane fuel straight from the gas station. The pumps do not say if they are 10% ethanol or not (Casey's General Store). I tried it out pulling a 13 foot Allis 1200 field cultivator (4 inch shovels) to smooth out the disc ridges after I moldboard plowed a field last fall. Depth stops limited it to about 5 inches. That used to make my 180 gas take notice. But the fresh D17 did it about 95% of the time in high 2nd. Few spots I had to drop back to low 2nd. I was impressed. Mike

Oh and no knocking! Mike

Interesting. I ask because of my experience with the D15 II (160) engine. I don't recall that the compression ratio is even as high as what you're talking, but it still knocks occasionally, even with ethanol fuel.

Actually the bottom end is very tight. Wanting to do rings, and top end. Owned this tractor since new . Dad says it doesnt need bottom end rebuilt. That said, SHOULD I, while its that far apart, go ahead and do it all?

One cylinder has a fair amount of oil coming from the exaust manifold. and will foul the plug in a day of running.

I say go ahead and rebuild the entire engine, Dad argues and says do rings and top end. Need a argument breaker.

Those engines were notoriously hard on the main bearings, since there are only three. But, yours, being a series three, has the full flow, higher pressure lube system doesn't it?
Whoever is paying for the job wins the argument.