Allis Chalmers HD4 how to separate track

George Farrell · May 23, 2012

I guess I"m getting ready to try and change out the clutch plates on my 68 HD4. The first thing I have to do is separate the tracks. I"ve read that there is a master pin somewhere, but I can"t find a pin that looks any different from any of the others. Is there something I should be looking for to identify the master pin? Any other help on how to get track apart would also be much appreciated.

warwagon01 · May 23, 2012

im not for sure on this but some of the master pins on other brands have a small dimple in the center of the pin to center a press on

George Farrell · May 23, 2012

My book says that the master pin can be identified as the one that is approx. 5/16" longer than the rest. Of course, none of them are on my machine. Is there any other way to identify the master pin? Or can I pound any one of them out and make it the master?

Anonymous-0 · May 23, 2012

No you can't removed the other pines you have to find the master pine

mdtractormechanic · May 23, 2012

Why do you need to remove the tracks? Are you replacing the steering clutches?

As for the pin, look for a beveled edge pin on the inner side of the tracks. This will be easier once you block up the tractor and have someone operating the machine turning the tracks forward while you look for the pin at the sprocket end.

George Farrell · May 23, 2012

The machine won't go in forward or reverse. It's been getting gradually worse over time. All fluids are fine. I'm assuming the shuttle clutch plates are worn out. Ive got to split the machine to get to the shuttle clutch.

randal thornsbury · May 24, 2012

on my hd4 the master pin had been spot welded to keep it from working out. i still had a hard time pushing the pin out after removing spot weld. one of the main things when you do find the master pin is to position master pin at front idler to get some slack. first thing before track separation is to check the pressure at the locations listed in the manual.

George Farrell · May 28, 2012

OK. I got started on this thing today. It's erratic. Sometimes it will snap right into fwd or rev with the shuttle handle, sometimes it won't. Sometimes it takes ten seconds or so then it will engage. Sometimes it will engage and go and then bog down and basically stop when you start trying to steer it with the pedals.

Anyways, I'm going to go buy a 400 psi guage like the book says and check the pressure at the shuttle valve. The test point is the upper plug of the two plugs on the rear of the valve, correct?

The book (circa 1968 or so) says to use "type A" fluid for torque convertor oil. What kind of modern oil should I use?

Someone suggested to me to change the covertor filter. There are no numbers on my filter. What filter do I use? And it's just a regular spin-on filter right?

Thanks.

randal thornsbury · May 29, 2012

george, the filter you mentioned is in the front of machine. i believe that the metal cylinder threads off. clean the filter screen good and re-install, best i remember. trans fluid is dexron III. i get mine at wall mart for 11 dollars gallon. i would check the pressures at the listed locations in book before separating unit. this will let you know about the torque convertor, good or bad. any leaks from torque ? you could have a problem in the shuttle shifter itself. dirt, springs or pins broke etc. i would check everything i could before track separation. what state are you located in ? i am in ky.

Allis Chalmers HD4 how to separate track

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