Splitting B, installing Ring Gear

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
hey dere;

Would appreciate hearing the process and how to do the job of splitting the model B, and installing a new ring gear.

thanks
 
It's a fairly straightforward job. You do need a splitting stand or some means to support both parts of the tractor. This is important, there's a considerable weight involved, even with a small tractor like a B. DON'T GET HURT. You will also need a dummy trans. shaft to align the clutch disc on re-assembly. If you haven't split tractors before, be sure to get a manual first.
 
Remove tin and valve cover. Bolt angle iron to valve cover bolts and lift with overhead crane or cherry picker. Support torque tube and block rear wheels. Disconnect wiring etc and unbolt engine from torque tube. Slide engine forward.
remove and replace ring gear and reassemble. I don't think you need to revome the clutch, so no need to worry about lining it back up.
 
i park in the barn under a joist/ beam. block up inder the drawbar and one stand under the torque tube so the back end can not rock when the motor is pulled.. Put a 3/4 ton chainfall on the roof beam and connect to two vavle cover bolts. pull the torque tube to bell housing bolts out. Roll the motor/ radiator, and front axle forward on the front tires, with the chain fall supporting the motor at level. Push the motor forward a foot, then pivot the axle and the motor will set just a couple feet from the torque tube. Remove the clutch and flywheel. Pound the gear off. Heat the new gear to 200 degrees so it grows a little, then push onto the flywheel. You can also use an engine hoist in front of the radiator to roll the motor/ axle forward.. but my barn has a gravel floor and the chainfall system works better.
 
You do need to lift from the engine with something because if you dont the engine will flop over to one side or the other at the pivot point at the axle.
I like to use jack stands under the drawbar to hold the weight of the tractor off the rear tires.

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I sure appreciate all the good help.

Am I going to need for sure a pilot shaft to line up the clutch on reassembly? Some fella say you gotta remove the clutch and some say no so I ogt to ask.
Also, do I need to replace the clutch bolts with grade 5 , or is this unnecessary?

thanks
 
A pilot alignment tool/shaft would be handy but if your not going to do several you can get by with a ruler. Get three longer bolts and put just enough pressure on the clutch plate to hold it from slipping. Use the ruler to make sure it is in the exact center as you tap it in place. Then tighten it down and put the three proper bolts in and replace the longer bolts with the proper ones. You will then be in like Flinn.
The only time I have replaced the pressure plate bolts with new was when they looked bad or I lost them.
You can change the ring gear without removing the pressure plate and clutch plate but to do so will keep you from knowing what the condition of the clutch assembly actually is.
 
Hey Dick;

I see in the one picture that you got the front of the torgue tube supports by a jack stand. is this pretty sturdy to hold up while doing the ring gear job? I like the idea of not having to pull of the belly mower that is on the tractor now.

Thanks a lot fo your good help.
 
Horvik, what is it you are wanting to know? The splitting process can be done by just as the guys have all stated. I used a motor stand I rented from the rental. It was attached to the front end and I used just blocking on the rear with a jack to hold things up and to give adjustment. Take the bolts out holding it together and it will split with some wiggling.

As to the ring gear, the old one came off with just prying it some. As to getting the new one on that would require that you heat the new ring gear to where it will expand some and it will fall right on. I burned up some boxes and paper and after that main fire I put the gear in the ashes for 4 to five minutes and it was enough heat I could not pick it us by hand but was enough to get it on easily. I fashioned two coat hangers with bends to lift the gear out of the fire pit and get it to the plate. It was a matter of just removing the hooks and setting it on.

One thing to do when your down there is to get the throw out bearing replaced and check the clutch plate for any wear and replace it as well. I would think you want to do the job of replacing everything at the same time as this will be a full day of work to get this done. Adjustments to the clutch can be made up before you get the tractor reassembled and any fine tuning will need to be made through the inspection hole.

When you get back to reassembling the tractor you will need the hand starter bar to move the engine some to get things to realign to the rearend shaft but it's a cake job if you take your time.
 

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