Allis Dave
Member
I’ve searched all over trying to find the original bal pak bearings for the old Allis Chalmers without paying $200+ per bearing from AGCO. I finally able to rebuild my own and because I never found much solid data online I thought I’d post what I did and all the specs for the original bearing.
In the first picture you can see the bad bearing after I took it apart. In the top center of the picture is the actual bearing which measures 2.835 OD, 1.375 ID, bearing center is .983 wide and the outside is .680. The bearing is press fitted onto the bushing in the bottom center of the picture which measures 1.379 OD, 1.015 ID by 2.388 wide. Over the center bushing and on each side of the bearing was pressed the side bushings shown on the top and bottom right of the picture. These measured about 1.94 OD (they were so wore and pitted I could take a precise measurement), 1.375 ID by .720 wide. The seals on the left were fitted over the side bushings and all this was pressed inside the wide 3” tube clamped onto the bearing hangers and the disk gang shaft ran through the center bushing
The second picture shows all the new parts I found for the rebuild. The bearing came from Agri industrial supply p/n 8817 for $33 and had the same exact specs as the original, This is a sealed bearing and made for disk type applications. I found that timkin bearing 207KRR was also the same spec bearing. The Timkin seals p/n 472653 are $12 each off amazon.com and have a 2”ID and 2.835-2.839 OD by .375 wide. I was able to reuse the center bushing and had two new side bushings turned on a lathe to 1.375ID by 2” OD by .720 wide. I pressed the bearing and side bushings onto the center bushing then pressed the whole thing into the outer casing. The two felt seals on the left are actually the front felt wheel bearing seals for a wd. I worked as much grease as possible into the seals , fit them over the side bearing, and installed the timkin seals. I thought the felt seals would help seal dirt out of the main bearing which was the whole idea of the balpak bearings. I really don’t expect the external seals to last very well in the dirt over time. Total cost was about $80 because I had the tool room at work turn the side bushing’s for free on break. Still a lot more than an Oliver bearing but still better than a $200+ for a new one or buying a used bearing for almost the same price.
In the first picture you can see the bad bearing after I took it apart. In the top center of the picture is the actual bearing which measures 2.835 OD, 1.375 ID, bearing center is .983 wide and the outside is .680. The bearing is press fitted onto the bushing in the bottom center of the picture which measures 1.379 OD, 1.015 ID by 2.388 wide. Over the center bushing and on each side of the bearing was pressed the side bushings shown on the top and bottom right of the picture. These measured about 1.94 OD (they were so wore and pitted I could take a precise measurement), 1.375 ID by .720 wide. The seals on the left were fitted over the side bushings and all this was pressed inside the wide 3” tube clamped onto the bearing hangers and the disk gang shaft ran through the center bushing
The second picture shows all the new parts I found for the rebuild. The bearing came from Agri industrial supply p/n 8817 for $33 and had the same exact specs as the original, This is a sealed bearing and made for disk type applications. I found that timkin bearing 207KRR was also the same spec bearing. The Timkin seals p/n 472653 are $12 each off amazon.com and have a 2”ID and 2.835-2.839 OD by .375 wide. I was able to reuse the center bushing and had two new side bushings turned on a lathe to 1.375ID by 2” OD by .720 wide. I pressed the bearing and side bushings onto the center bushing then pressed the whole thing into the outer casing. The two felt seals on the left are actually the front felt wheel bearing seals for a wd. I worked as much grease as possible into the seals , fit them over the side bearing, and installed the timkin seals. I thought the felt seals would help seal dirt out of the main bearing which was the whole idea of the balpak bearings. I really don’t expect the external seals to last very well in the dirt over time. Total cost was about $80 because I had the tool room at work turn the side bushing’s for free on break. Still a lot more than an Oliver bearing but still better than a $200+ for a new one or buying a used bearing for almost the same price.
