Gear ratio-Tire Size for 3.5 MPH

AC Puller

New User
What tire size and gear do you all recommend for getting the best results at 3.5 MPH? I've been using 13.6X 28 in 1st gear and it just seems slow. The tractor is a 1950 WD.
 
I pull a couple of WDs and i find first gear is too fast, usually. I usually power out, unless the track is too slippery or hard. One of the WDs has 14.9-28s and the other has 13.6-28s. I think if i had a gear that would give 2MPH that would be great. What speed to you have your WD governed at? We can only go 100 over stock.
 
Are you saying the 14.9's make your tractor too fast? We can run 10% over stock RPM. It just seems like everyone else is running fast enough to run through holes and soft spots that suck down my smaller tires. I've got the stock gears in my tractor.
 

The 14.9x28" was the size the WD-45 came with (13x28").. a LOT more tire on the ground with the 14.9"...
If you don't have enough power for 1st gear, you gotta live with it or put MORE Ponies under your hood...!!
More Compression and a WD-45 Crank would be the Minimum.plus more RPM..and, you could still use it on the farm..
Go too far and the tractor becomes a dedicated Puller and is not much good for anything else...

Ron..
 
I pull my WD at 3500, 4000, and will probably start pulling at 4500 this year I'm switching from AC wheel weights to IH wheel weights so stacking on weight gets a little easier. If it hooks up, its decent a 3500 but it pulls best at 4000. I don't ever run out of power it always spins out. I can go a little more on my hitch but not much.
 
As a fellow orange puller I can tell you that you need to build your engine enough to be able to use 2nd gear if your going to keep the small tires. A WD45 crank, and 175 or WD pistons is the way to go. puts you around 8:1, and gives you a useable 50-60 HP depending on if you do any work to the head and manifold, and what carb your running. Also a 175 governor spring from agco will wake it up, and still be barnyard useful. Just keep your timing conservative, and youll be able to burn pump gas no problem.
 
THanks Adam
By 175 are you refering to the model 175 AC? Also what carb do you recommend? ITs a fairly decent motor, it was built about 15 years ago with the bigger sleeves but its time to wake it up some more. I switched to a K&N air filter this year and helped a ton.
 
Yup, the 175. And is you can find one, the MS464 marvel off some WDs, WD45s, etc works the best. Also, if your tractor is running a mag, get rid of it, and get a distributor. Pertronix is a good way to make sure the flame stays lit. Any other questions feel free to PM me.
 
You have to consider the type pull you are going to. The one I work at every year is first gear only and 13.9x28 would be max size for that tractor to qualify. And the engine not over 100 rpm over factory spects, now the engine you could up it with a 45 crank and pistons and it would still be considered capable of field work but to do what several posters are saying would disqualify the tractor for the pull. So you have to decide the type of pull you are going for. Other pulls around me are about the same on mods, some just allow more weights than others.
 
I pull my wds in a 4000 lb. class, (featherweight). I run my hitch at 18" from the ground, which is the maximum allowed, and 14" back from the PTO. (SAE 540 pto set up). I have an extra brace on the bottom of the drawbar to minimize flex or bending of the bar when the load really comes on. The front wheels come off the ground about 1/2 inch at max pull. I run a TSX464 carb which is WD45, but I think it came from a gleaner combine. My governor lever has been lenghthened so the carb goes wide open sooner when the load comes on. I out pulled the rest of the class by 40-50 ft. My worst enemy is a Cockshutt 30 with tall skinny tires, they seem to hook up on hard tracks when mine wipes its feet.
 

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