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Allis C oil and hydraulic fluid

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I've got my grandpa's old allis C, I need to change the oil as it has been a long time and its kinda milky looking, water in it from sittin out I assume. What do you guys recommend for a engine oil nowadays in the Model C? Also the leather around the shifter lever cracked and some water leaked into the hydraulic fluid, I replaced it with a new boot and have changed the fluid 3 times now, yet it still looks to have water in it, any suggestions on how to get it all out without breaking the tractor down and really getting in there and cleaning it out? Also what do you recommend for hydraulic fluid.
 
the newer 10 w 30 motor oils are far superior to the old 30wt. Your trans/ hydraulics will have a few pockets that retain water and hard to get rid of. Normal to drain 2-3 times and still have some residue of water. Small amount giving it a brownish color is o.k. It will probalby not go away on its own, the trans dont get that hot to vaporize it. Final drives take less than a quart each side, and 80-90 gear lube is good.
 
My self I use UTF in the transmission.rear end/hyds on my C. In the bull gear pan I use 85W-140 and in the engine I use 30W but I do not run it in the winter and for that matter I have not fired it up in a year now
 
The tractor has always had a non detergent 30 run in it, is it advisable to stay with the non detergent or is it ok to switch over to the modern detergent stuff? I am getting mixed opinions on this. My dad recommends stayin with the non detergent he says if I run the detergent oil it will cause the tractor to use oil. I have read this online as well but have read the opposite also.
 
Have you pulled all 3 plugs on the rear?
1 under the trans, 1 under the diff, 1 under the pto. I have run detergent in 8 old tractors and none of them burn oil. Bob
 
I do and will only run a detergent oil no matter what has been in one before I get it. A non-detergent oil causes build up in the engine which in turn gums up every thing and sooner or later something is going to brake and cause major problem due to the build up of junk. In you area I would run a 10W40 or some such oil in it and change it say 2 times. Change it and run it about 10-20 hours then change it again to help clear out any junk that has built up
 
so then you disagree with those who claim the detergent will cause them to lose compression and burn oil? These guys say the gunk will somehow help to tighten up an old engine and the detergent will clean it out and make the tolerances loose. I don't know if I can believe a bunch of gunk can be beneficial in any way to an engine.
 
After draining the tranny, try taking the side cover off to mop up any small leftover puddles. Then flush it out with some diesel before putting the cover back on.
I don't know how anyone can say sludge can help keep the tractor from burning oil. Sludge is what causes wear.
 
Well as I said I only use a detergent type oil in every thing and have been doing that for decades. I have owned repaired and still have many tractors as in around 30 right now . Ya half of them are only parts machines but all the others run including my grand fathers 1935 JD-B and I run a 50W racing oil in it and it is not just a detergent oil but a high detergent type of oil. Ya the old JD-B does burn oil but hey is has not been opened up since maybe back in the 50s so it should use a bit of oil
 
i have 7 of the small B tractors. I rebuilt 3 motors that were locked up or failed. All 7 run detergent oil from the time i got them. Drain and refill with 10w 30 detergent oil. Run 20 hours and see what the oil looks like. Drain and refill if needed. I have not had to really do that. If you got that much sludge inside, you already have a problem..
 
I have a A/C B and run 30w non detergent oil in it. That is all the tractor has ever had in her. I change the oil and filter each fall before I put on the snow plow. No one has ever been inside the engine on this tractor and she start for me no matter what the temp is. Oil pressure is fine and I average about 50 hours a year on her.I use UTF in the diff and 75-90 in the bull gears. Hydraulics are a bit slow when operating at sub zero weather plowing snow for about the first 10 minutes then everything is fine. I know every person that has ever operated this tractor.
 
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