I just use a 1 wire GM alternator. You just have to open the hoods of a few chevies, at the junkard, to get a model and year, then pick up a rebuilt unit at your favorite parts store, or rebuilder, if you have one nearby.
 
although it is a common thought to use a one wire alt. they aren t the best thing for old tractors I.E. you need to spin them up to around 2200 rpm to get them to start charging, why not go to auto-zone, napa or anyplace like that get a delco 3 wire alt. and follow one of the many wiring diagrams that are on here for that. it starts charging just off idle and takes about ten minutes to wire !
 
All you need to do to overcome the slow speed problem , on the 1 wire is to put a smaller pulley, on the 1 wire, sorry I forgot to mention.
 
use a DELCO 10SI found on most GM cars from 1975-1990 era. It will have a two pin connector ont eh side. HOt wire to one and signal to the other thru a dropping resistor. MOre infor available if you need. Just modify the present generator bracket.
<a href="http://s436.photobucket.com/albums/qq86/steve-ill/?action=view&amp;current=alternator-coilWireing-1.jpg" target="_blank">
alternator-coilWireing-1.jpg" border="0" alt="alternator- coil
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I have never done a D-19 but I did three D-19 cousin, Gleaner C-II with the G-262 engine. I DID NOT need a "kit". I just used three standard three wire Delco internal regulator alternator. I connected the battery wire from the generator regulator to the Battery terminal of the alternator, a wire with a diode in it went from terminal one to the switched 12 volt side of the ignition coil and a wire from terminal two to the battery side of the amp meter. Some people make this connection to the stud on the alternator BUT this is not right IF you understand voltage drops in wire even during battery charging. You will need to swap the wire on the amp meter and the wires on the coil.

Kent
 
Ah but the smaller pulley only work some times. I have a 1 wire on my 8N ford and it charges when it wants to and doesn't when it wants to. I know your going to say it has a problem well if it does no machine that checks them can see it because I have had it checked more then once so as long as the machine says it works I can not turn it in under the life time warranty. I'll stick with the 3 wire and know it works LOL
 
I"m in the one wire GM alternator camp. They"ve always worked fine on the two WCs we have them on. Just need to remember after startup to blip the throttle open once to start them charging& once they are excited you can go back down to an idle & it will still charge. Kip
 
Old, I am spoiled, I meet the snap on man's truck, at a friend's rebuild shop, almost every Friday night. He knows his stuff, and has loads of parts laying around, to scrounge. I don't claim to know what's wrong with every alternator, or electrical system, so I gets to ask him, as they arise. He also has a way of getting the one wires to excite, at lower than standard rpm. He also can build them with higher load capabilities, like the ambulances, and buses use. He always told me to rev the motor up, once it has been started for a while, to make sure the alternator is charging, speed kicks it in.
 
Oh and by the way there is another reason I use the 3 wire over the one wires. The 3 wire cost me with a life time warranty around $45 and a one wire will cost me around $85 so I can almost buy 2 3 wires for the cost of one one wire and the one wire unless you spend the extra $20 is only a one year warranty
 
The one wire alternator on my WD45 will start charging at 500rpm and shows about 13v...a little higher than idle and it will put out 14v...
 
Your one of the lucky few then I have had many of them and most did not work well at all
 

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