Identify Allis B, year and what is or is not original.

[color=green:a85a4c2ae3][b:a85a4c2ae3]Greetings![/b:a85a4c2ae3][/color:a85a4c2ae3]
I recently purchased this beat up B to help with some of the garden farm duties, thinking I may want to fix it up a little but have no Idea what year it is, guessing 47,48,49,

Could you help identify this and let me know what is or is not original?
I have done some research here and noticed the obvious, battery box, starter switch, things like that.

Man what a cobbled mess! :oops: It does run, pops and sputters under a load. :(
Thought I might restore it. Eek

Lots of pics for you to rip on! :shock:
Thanks Fellas, Jeff

One quick question, is the b a positive ground?

http://driedhotpeppers.com/images/Allis_Chalmers_Pictures.html

Allis_Chalmers0027.JPG
 
Yes the B is standard positive ground. Tell us the serial number, located on top of the transmission near the base of the shifter.
 
According to this site it is a 1948. Being that it still has a generator on it, it is most likely positive ground, but it could have been converted. Some obvious things to add that are not original are muffler, sediment bowl placement and plumbing, voltage regulator, and hydraulic hose on the back.
 
From the factory if it had a battery some did not would have been 6 volt + ground. As Ted said get the serial number form in front of the shifter and see where the numbers fall into the serial number list on the right of this page to find what your is is
 
it has potental, ive done alot worse. my only question for anyone that can answer, i have never seen the little device in front of the steering box, (12th pic down far right) what is that? almost looks like a hand start end for the front pulley.
 
(quoted from post at 01:43:15 05/14/11) According to this site it is a 1948. Being that it still has a generator on it, it is most likely positive ground, but it could have been converted. Some obvious things to add that are not original are muffler, sediment bowl placement and plumbing, voltage regulator, and hydraulic hose on the back.

Thanks you!

If I chose to convert this will I have to change the starter? or will it just turn over faster?
 
(quoted from post at 02:38:04 05/14/11) it has potental, ive done alot worse. my only question for anyone that can answer, i have never seen the little device in front of the steering box, (12th pic down far right) what is that? almost looks like a hand start end for the front pulley.

Hay Brian, was wondering the same thing! :?

Looked around to see if there was a place for it to fit, but nothing.

Thought that if the sediment bowl was changed that maybe it fit the shut of on the original? someone here will know. :wink:

I numbered the pics for referance (screen size and pixel count every one may see the pics 3,4, or5, to a row)

Pic #36 is that the one you are refering to?
http://driedhotpeppers.com/images/Allis_Chalmers_Pictures.html

Allis_Chalmers_Keyofsomesort.jpg
 

I do not have any manuals yet so maybe some one can tell me if there is a way to remove the play out of the steering, all the other lose points I have tightened, the rest is in the steering gear box. about 1/8 of a turn of slop. Thanks Jeff
 
thanks for the close up. maybe looks like a tool for opening the shudders on the rad? my C's are a little differant and my B is pre shudder.
 
I have 7-8 different B tractors. AS "old Bs" go, yours is above average for condition. Normal stuff is modification to the battery, push button starter instead of push rod, battery box rotted off, amp meter wrong or replaced with volt meter, water temp gauge remote mounted instead of direct screw in design, gas tube to carburetor was not copper, and sediment bowl is wrong desing and moved out for more access. The original generator (might be) was controlled by the light switch resistor to help adjust current. Yours has been updated with a voltage regulator. THe B had a bench seat. Your spring mounted unit has been taken from another tractor or aftermarket. I believe the later Bs might have had distributors and coils. Most had magnitos, atleast up till the late 1950s. That probably came off a WD45. You got a good start on a tractor. Belive me, i have seen a laot worse. Need to figure out why it dont run so good, then go from there. Could be gas or spark or timing.
 
(quoted from post at 03:46:53 05/14/11) No you will not need to change the starter, but you will need to change your coil or add a resistor.

What alternator is recommended for the conversion? any special brackets needed? and what kind and where do I get a resistor? As far as the wiring goes, does anyone have a wiring diagram of the conversion?
Can I then change it to negative ground?

I imagine that I could do hour of research and find out but hoping the generosity of you people will save me some real time! :)

This is something I may consider changing right away that Is why I am asking. :roll:

Please and thank you, anyone! :D
 
(quoted from post at 04:34:24 05/14/11) this guy has a nice tractor, close to original

https://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/tphotos/a129141.jpg
Untitled URL Link

Thanks Steve for your time!

Wow! You must have allis Chelmers blood. :)

I take it that you have restored a few, are they really worth it in the long run or do I consider doing this for fun, seems time consuming and pricy, for the end result not being worth the time and money! (resale)

They do look sharp when done, I do a lot of hay rides every year and this tractor all decked out would look good in front of my steel spoked wheel hay wagon. :)

I know it won't take me long to put a bench seat back on it, this one suck at best, and always have the feeling that if it brakes; not a pretty site. :lol:

Cheers, Jeff
 
no will not overhaul and make money on the deal. This is a love of tractor, not a money making deal. .. Rather than rebuild to original, i make some modifications and "upgrades to 2011". An alternator is a good upgrade. I prefer the small DELCO CS130 used on GM cars in the 1995- 2005 time frame. Others are just as good. The older DELCO SI 10 from 1975-1985 era is very common, but large. I also like to put a FORD starter solenoid in the tool box and wire to a push button starter on the light box. I remove the old light switch and unstall two toggles, for kill and lights, and the button for starter with the amp meter. 12 volt battery and new cables fixes many starting problems year round.
 
here is a B setup as a mower

<a href="http://s436.photobucket.com/albums/qq86/steve-ill/?action=view&amp;current=no6finalpaint005.jpg" target="_blank">
no6finalpaint005.jpg" border="0" alt="B with woods deck
</a>
 
here is a B with the rear axles rolled 90 degrees forward to drop the tractor 6 inches... note the small DELCO alter.

<a href="http://s436.photobucket.com/albums/qq86/steve-ill/?action=view&amp;current=Orchardleft.jpg" target="_blank">
Orchardleft.jpg" border="0" alt="1940 Orchard B
</a>
 
Steve,

I think you mean 8" drop. I've done a couple B/C Allis' and they were 8" drops. Did you make the front axle or use an IB axle?
 

Very, very nice Steve. Some real show pieces! Just love the drop, wow what a difference a few inches can make!

Thanks for the inspiration. :D

My daughter Chelsea and I were talking last night after seeing your pic’s and others here as well, and she decided to help me restore this one come winter.
She is 19 now and almost 1 year to date see was in a trailer fire when visiting a friends, 75% of her body was severely burned and is just now able to walk and pick things up again so this is a great sign of moving on, we look forward to restoring this B and will be looking for advice from experts like yourself to complete this shared moment in time!
Thanks again, Jeff
 
i made a box axle, basically copies my IB. Start with a box, then put a short pipe on each end wich was bored to accept bushings... then used original B spindles.
 
When you rotate the fianls do you have issues with the lube leaking? I've thought about doing that and was concerned that the amount of lube sitting in the 'bottom' of the casting would cause the seals to want to weep.

Interesting you built your own axle, I was thinking about flipping the wishbone.Kingpin inclination would be off a litle but not outrageously.
 

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