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Discussion Forum

Allis C

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Author  [Modern View]

04-21-2011 05:05:23

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having trouble with the clutch on my C. It wouldn't shift so upon futher investigation, looking though the access hole on the bottom of the bell housing, I saw broken parts.

We split the tractor to find that one of the fingers on the pressure plate had broken off and was shot.

So we Picked up a new disk, pressure plate and throwout bearing. Everything went back together without a hitch. Then once we started it and tried to engage the clutch, Bang, one of the fingers from the new pressure plate goes shooting out the access hole in the bottom of the bell housing!!!!

After splitting the tractor again, I appears that the arm the the clutch pedal rod screws into on the throwout bearing assembly had made contact with the pressure plate and busted off one of the fingers!!!

Has anyone experienced this before? We are puzzled and out $130 for the new, now broken pressure plate.


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04-22-2011 04:57:42

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 Re: Allis C in reply to old, 04-21-2011 05:05:23  
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the more I think about it, the more I think this was our problem. I'm thinking we need to mount the pressure plate and then back off the adjustment bolts to get the fingers to proper specs. this would allow the fingers to contact the throwout bearing much sooner and release the clutch before the throwout bracket busts off another finger. And yes, we did replace the trowout bearing as well.

Please, can someone tell me I'm on the right track???

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04-22-2011 04:52:22

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 Re: Allis C in reply to Justin Scholtus, 04-21-2011 05:05:23  
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We already had to swap the old pressure plate for the new one for the core charge. good thought though. Also the new fingers looked a little different so I don't know If we'd want to mix and match.

thanks for the reply.

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04-21-2011 17:46:09

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 Re: Allis C in reply to JoeinMN, 04-21-2011 05:05:23  
Can you replace one of the broken fingers with one from the old plate? I would try that before buying another one.

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04-21-2011 09:50:09

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 Re: Allis C in reply to JOJEWIL, 04-21-2011 05:05:23  
thanks for the reply Bob. I'm starting to think maybe we were supposed to back out the adjustment bolts out of the pressure plate once the plate and disk are installed. There didn't seem to be much travel in the pressure plate fingers, but then again we're newbee's. And yes there is a stop on the side that stops the pedal.
We're picking up the new pressure plate tomorrow but need to figure out what went wrong before we bust another one.

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04-21-2011 05:59:12

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 Re: Allis C in reply to JOJEWIL, 04-21-2011 05:05:23  
Thanks for the reply. We were thinking the same as well, however the theads on the rod looked unblemished, while the arm the rod theads into was dinged and was clearly the part that made contact with the pressure plate.

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bjb in Tx from Ne

04-21-2011 05:46:07

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 Re: Allis C in reply to JoeinMN, 04-21-2011 05:05:23  
On a B (which in this instance is probably the same as a C), the threads from the clutch petal rod is only supposed to protrude by one or two threads. I believe this is stated in the AC owners manual. If you screw it in more I imagine exactly what you described would happen.

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04-21-2011 05:30:09

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 Re: Allis C in reply to J.Wondergem, 04-21-2011 05:05:23  
Does the pressure plate need to be adjusted or does it just go in as is. I noticed the factory put paint on the bolts in the fingers. Is that a warrenty thing??


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04-21-2011 19:03:21

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 Re: Allis C in reply to JoeinMN, 04-21-2011 05:30:09  
You must also set the Pressure plate fingers at the proper place. The B/C service manual will give you that setting. My book is in the shop tonight. Also, what shape is your throw out bearing in? I always change the bearing when I change a clutch. Bob

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Bob Bancroft

04-21-2011 07:29:17

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 Re: Allis C in reply to JoeinMN, 04-21-2011 05:30:09  
There are several things to check. The screw dimension was already mentioned. Without looking I can't remember, but isn't there a definite stop on or near the pedal, or linkage? Sounds like something is traveling too far. Check the cast iron bearing carrier for obvious wear where the arms contact it. Also the arms themselves. I always check finger adjustment. There is a dimension in service book- plus there is a neat, obscure tool that you can sort of duplicate with enough squares and/or straight edges. Measure from the mating surfaces of the bell housing/torque tube back to the face of the throw out bearing WITH THE BEARING, CARRIER, LINKAGE, ETC. ALL IN PROPER SHAPE. Then the trickier part. Measure from the same mating surfaces back and across to the fingers. The fingers should obviously be equal to one another, and should lack 1/8" to 1/4" of touching the throwout bearing.

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