Oh how I hate drawbar pins

atlarge54

Member
I've got 3 allis C's in my garage one is on a skid broken down for parts----BOTH drawbar pins firmly rusted in place even though they were seriously treated with penetrating oil and heat. One was even drilled out for a threaded rod and slam hammer.
Today I decided to check out and adjust the axle bearings on my mowing C. BAD IDEA, needed to remove the belly mower mount to access caps. Of the four bolts two are broken off flush, one I broke and one was previously broken. Lucky for me it only had one drawbar pin and yes it's FIRMLY RUSTED IN PLACE. I've been dosing the bolts and pin with PB and ATF for a few months and it didn't seem to help. I'm certain the broken bolts are capable of destroying an easy out.
The 3rd C needs some bearing work in the rear end and trans. I've been dosing the pins and bolts for a good 6 months. This tractor might be a little better since it appears to have spent more time in out of the weather.
Sometimes these old tractors just ain't much fun.
 
I remember when I removed those from my B. I ended up drilling them out and threading a rod down the center. Some large holed washers and used a nut to pull them out. The new ones are stainless steel with threads already cut into them. If I ever need to pull them again, they are ready to go.
 
weld a TEE handle bar to the end of the rod and then keep smacking it to rotate the rod and pin... sometimes an air hammer with a zillion small "smacks" will help shock things loose.
 
I assume, by saying drawbar pins, you mean the ones in the finals, that the drawbar bolts to...heat them with an oxy torch, apply candle wax as they cool...wax melts into the threads to loosen them. You already did the right things with PB Blaster and ATF. Broken bolts- weld a nut on, and use candle wax as it cools. Heat of welding helps to let the wax melt in. I"ve had excellent results doing that, including manifold bolts going into the head. What is there to lose?
 
Back when the C was used as a Farm tractor the Drawbar had to come off evry time you mounted the plow or cultivator. and back on for other work. they never rusted. I also hated spinning the tires around every week to put the cultivator for one day and put them back the next.
 
I have never had any luck with any thin oil stuff on those pins when they are rusted in. Same with the bolts next to them. Penetrating oil seems to help after you get the pins to move a little. Welding a bar on the pins as steve said I think would be the best way and smack it one way and then the other to get movement started. Heating around the out side of the pin will help also. I have had to drill out all the drawbar bolts that wouldn't come with wrenches.
Seems those pins on an older B or C want to fall out or decide to be part of the final drive.
 

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