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non detergent oil lubes inside of castings better statement

T

TJC in MN

Member
I heard that non detergent oil sticks better to inside of engine and components and is more well suited for older engines since they were designed with this type of oil whereas newer types of detergent oil have more "slipperyness" and lubricate very well but not the same way as non detergent oil.. I know nothing about engineering engines or anything just what I heard..also heard stories of guys converting to detergent oil and engine seizes after only a little while. I'm only writing this because I'm thinking of using model C for winter use and want to protect and get the most out of engine, just seems like if i put sae 10w in engine as what is recommended by manual that it would be quit a thin oil to protect things.
Thanks
 
The engines probably seized because the detergent oil cut loose years of crud. See the posts below about detergent vs non and crud build up. I run 10-30 year round in my WD and haven't had any problems. If it's very cold where you are, then anything heavier than 10 won't flow enough when it's cold to lube the parts. Take your pancake syrup and put it in the freezer overnight. That's what your oil pump has to deal with till the oil warms up. If it were mine, I'd do 3 things, run modern oil, drop the pan/pull the valve cover and clean everything up, and last, run a light oil in the winter.
AaronSEIA
 
Don"t get into this too deep.
Been running B"s, C"s, WD"s and D-17"s for forty years on 10w-30 detergent all year and all are doing fine.

10w was used in below 0 temps years ago.
 
The engine probaly blew because the screen or the pump got plugged from sludge that was broke free from the detergent.
Clean the sludge out of the oil pain and clean the valve cover and the top of the head before switching.
Change the oil a few times alot sooner than you normally would to remove sludge.
 
Non detergent oilsare a thing of the past and if you are still running them in your engines your not helping them but hurting them. I have not run non detergent oils in any of my tractors ever and I own a good number of old ones oldest being a 1935 JD-B that I run Valvoline racing oil in which is a high detergent oil
 
Old the Valvoline Racing Oil is a detergent oil but has less detergent than their regular oil but it has more zinc and phosphurous since it is an off road oil and race cars don't have converters in the exhaust systems that are being harmed by these additives.
 
jeff has the plan. If your rebuilding a motor, start it out on detergent 10 w 30 oil. If you have an old engine you could break loose some of the crud with the detergent... i have heard that, but i have run 10 w 30 detergent in several old B motors and no problem yet. Check every 10 hours and look at the oil. If it is dark and looks like crud, drain it out and put in new detergent and let it start cleaning again. You could take the valve cover off and look inside if your really interested.
 
I should sa Specialty Racing Oil.
I don"t know the detergent levels of the VR-1 racing oil.
Valvoline® Specialty Racing Oil ("Not Street Legal")
The low-detergent, high zinc racing oil optimized for track-use only, delivers increased horspower and extreme wear protection


•High zinc/phosphorus provides extreme wear protection, including flat tappet applications
•Low detergent formula to deliver maximum horsepower on the track
•Recommended for race engines only
•Compatible with gasoline or alcohol fuels
•Available by request through NAPA, Carquest, O"Reilly, Jeg"s and performance shops served by Keystone Automotive
 
One thing to think about is the connecting rods on a B, C, and CA are not pressure lubed. It takes time for the oil to get to them from being squirted from holes in the hollow camshaft.
I run 0w-20 Mobil 1 full synthetic in my CA. Been doing that 10 years now so I can get it started when the temp is below 0. The idea non detergent oil sticks better is BS. The only thing non detergent oil is better than is no oil.
 
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