CA differential clutch

kent sparrow

New User
Hello, i"ve got a "52 CA and the clutch in the rear end is slipping real bad. i suspect that it is getting oil on it from leaking seals. i guess my only choice is to tear down the rear end? or do i just have to tear down one side? appreciate any advice i can get. i wouldn"t even mind bypassing if, i reallly don"t use this secondary clutch. THanks for any advice, Kent
 
Well the way I understand thing is the parts are hard if not impossible to come by the fix those and you can do away with it by getting a part for a C if memory is correct. Also if I am correct which I may not be but thing so I have 2 C rear ends laying around
 
I had the same thing happen on a CA I used for tractor pulling. To get at the clutch, you need to take off the right axle housing, which isn't too big of a job. I took the clutch out, drilled three holes in it and bolted it together solid with 3/8" grade 8 bolts. Problem solved. I think the whole job start to finish was only a few hours. Send me an email, I have pictures of the process.
Zack
 
Learned a lot about them this summer, before I found my CA. The lining is about $135, and if you need the Lambert clutch assembly, they are hard to find and will run about $4-600. To repair or remove, you need to pull off the right side final. Some choose to disable them by bolting or welding the halves together- some remove the clutch and both axle pieces and replace it with one from the left side. If you remove the clutch, you have no right side brake, since one clutch half is the brake drum. Labor is the same no matter what you do, replacement axles cost money, too. I"d replace the lining if that is all it needs. I&T AC-11 service manual has the details of what you"re getting in to.
 

Be very sure you KNOW which way the clutch-plate came out..you won't want to put it in the clutch backwards..it will not release, if you do..
Hummm...how did I find that out..??

You may need to make a puller, to coax the clutch out..we had to make one that bolted to the end of the clutch and used a slide-hammer..
Not that bad to get apart...BUT, we had to replace the inner seal on that side..now that was a BEAR..has to be installed from the final drive side and coaxed up past the bull gear, to get it in there..
Otherwise, you have to torch the snap-ring that is in the way, to get the slap-ring out...about Impossible to get it out any other way..!!

Ron..
 
thanks to all who replied. I beleive it will try the bolting method. if i were restoring it, i"d want it to work but since this is still a working tractor, i don"t need this secondary clutch really. it was a somewhat handy for mowing aroudn trees so the deck would stay on but not that big of a deal. i beleive it has oil on it really. i"m gong to replace the seals and brakes while i"m in there. make it safe again. thanks
 

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