Update on WD that will not start and stay running...

Okay, so I had some time to tinker with my WD again this morning. So I pulled the fuel line from the carb, had good flow of gas there. Pulled the main jet, and it just had some yellowish crap on it, but didn't see any sedimentation... So I pulled the drain plug off the carb, hosed the inlet and bowl and main jet out with carb cleaner, let it dry for about an hour (there was a bit of sediment on the bowl plug itself, but the only thing that came out from flushing it was this brown varnish looking stuff, really).

Anyway, so I put the fuel line back on, put the drain plug back in, and decided to fire it up... Or at least, attempt to.

I choked it 3 times, pulled the starter, it fired up and died. Rinse and repeat this step a dozen or so times.

Finally, I decided the heck with it, and pulled the choke and the starter at the same time. It ran for about 10 seconds this time, then quit.

So, lastly, I pulled the starter and the choke, and when it started this time - I just held the choke open, and the thing kept running! When I closed the choke, it died in about 3-5 seconds.

Again, I started it with the choke open, held the choke open, threw it in gear, and drove it up from the pasture (where it had stopped on me) to some shade trees about 100 feet away, so I would have some comfort to work in (it's been 95+ here lately). I throttled it up with the choke open, and whereas it usually sputters and coughs, it revved up no questions asked. Wasn't even running rough or blowing black or white smoke; just chugging along.

So I parked it, played with the choke some (got a bit of white smoke depending on how much the choke was open compared to how much I throttled up the engine), so I finally just shut the choke off, and it died.

So, this is where I am at now. Confused. Should I check my air filter? Do I maybe have something mis-set, still plugged up (again, I didn't really clean the carb out), or possibly broken in the carb itself? It seems like it gets gas, but not enough air. Or the mixture is just wrong. I'm pretty sure I don't have "bad gas", as it were.

The tractor wasn't even running rough when I had the choke held wide open (it wasn't 100% smooth, but it was good for being a cold engine on a hot day, IMO). Running it with the choke open all the time is not an option (it's probably dangerous or bad for the engine, but I do not know). But I've got it where I can get to it more easily now, so any input you can give me would be greatly appreciated. You guys haven't ever let me down!

Turn the gas off. Pull the carb drain plug out. Then with a can etc catch the gas that comes out the bottom of the carb with the gas turned on. Check it for dirt etc. Also do the same thing with the main jet if it has that type of main jet that is. I'll bet you that you have dirt/rust in the carb which is clogging things up and by choking it and holding it choked your forcing it to suck enough gas in to make it run. Another thing you might also try to clear it up is pull the air cleaner tube off. Start it up from the sdie. Make 1000% sure it is out of gear. Then with it running slip your hand over the air in let and hold it till it just starts to die. Do that 4 or 5 times and some times that will be enough to cause the engine to suck the dirt out of the carb and out the exhaust

Sounds good! I will give it a shot in the next day or two, old, and see what happens.

And I'll try and clean the air filter while I'm in there, anyway.

This is the type of carb I have, it's a Marvel Schebler:

Would you believe that is not the correct carb for that tractor?? Your carb should have a main jet that lays parrel (sp) to the frame instead of having a main jet that sits at a 45 degree angle like your does. That type of carb is more for a tractor like a ford. Would be interesting to know what the numbers are that are on the carb. Only problem is the only way to read the numbers for it is if you pull it off since the brass tag is on the engine side of the carb and can not be read when on the engine

When you pull (and hold) the choke rod it restricts the amount of air going through the carb and thus makes the fuel/air mixture richer. Since your WD runs with the choke pulled it is either not getting enough gas (carb set too lean or carb is dirty) or getting too much air (sucking air in a through a leak in intake manifold or gasket).

old - Really? That's interesting. We've got 3 late model WDs (with crooked gear shifters) in my family, all bought around the same time, with the same M-S carb on it. Did they just run out of the Zeniths or whatever at the factory and swap 'em out for these, or what?

Clay in MI - Ah, that's good. We put brand new manifold gaskets on it in... 2006 or so, so that problem should be clear. Must be a dirty carb, then.

Anyway way to diagnose a hole in the intake manifold? I wasn't getting any excessive popping or backfiring, ever.

Guess I'll actually have to take the carb off the tractor and clean it.

Ya not sure on those carbs. I have my W speed patrol same engine as a WD and a WD and a WD45 all have the carbs like I was talking about so not sure what you have.
As for checking for a vacuum leak that is easy and can be done in a few ways. A simple propane torch not lit waved around the manifold and carb will tell you if you have a leak. Turn the torch on and with the engine running wave it around the manifold. If the RPMs increase you have a leak if not no problem. Can also be done with WD40 or carb cleaner but be careful doing the sprays because they can catch fire easier

Okay, I have another update. Went out tonight, pulled the drain plug, turned the gas on, and waited about 3 minutes. Nothing leaked out of the bottom of the carb. Nothing.

So, I pulled the two bolts and the two linkages, and pulled the thing off. Turned the thing upside down, and could feel gas sloshing around the inside of the carb, and it was quite heavy. Turned it upside down, and had some gas dribble down my arm, but the entire drain plug hole was packed with rust and debris! Whoops.

The entire insides are coated with a dark layer of black crap, too. The air intake and the intake to the manifold is nice and clean, but inside the carb itself... It is a nightmare!



Seems like I'll be cleaning this sucker out good over the next few days and putting it back on and see what happens. Though will probably need help figuring out how to set all of the jets to proper "turns" when I get it re-assembled.

The spray cans of carburetor cleaner is real good to wash the dust off the outside of the carburetor but just will not break up the build up inside. To do a real good job of cleaning you will need to pick up a can of carburetor cleaner with a basket to soak it in over night. I get mine at NAPA.

Here is the bottom half that could be restricting the fuel getting into the engine. The discharge tube will need to be removed before soaking. After soaking you will need to use a small drill and spin it in your fingers to dislodge the larger build up if any. You can do it before and after as well.
The fuel is metered at the adjusting needle and then is drawn from there up thru the brass discharge jet/feeder tube. It needs to be clear from the end of the needle all the way thru the feeder tube. A restriction in that area can block free flow and could cause the problem you are having. The gasket missing under the feeder tube can also cause such a problem as it will draw air under the feeder tube head thru the threads.

Okay, I just pulled my two halves apart, and found that the bottom of the bowl was plugged, as well as some of the inlet.



Going to do a more thorough cleaning after going to the AutoZone/NAPA whatever store tomorrow to get supplies...

This thing was just rebuilt like 3 months ago, it's amazing how much junk filters in so fast.

If you need to pull the choke to make it run right, it is short of fuel, or has too much air, like in an intake manifold leak. Shortage of fuel is more common. Choke determines the fuel/air mix. I take off the carb, dismantle, including the jets, and boil in plain water for 15 minutes. Removes a lot of internal gunk. Check float assembly setting upon reassembly, according to Zenith/Marvel Schebler specs per the op manual. Remove the sediment bowl assembly, stick in a short piece of plastic tubing that will stick up into the fuel tank an inch. Eliminates a lot of bottom feeders (democraps) that are floating around the bottom of the tank.

That is the correct carburetor for a WD, I have a '51, which used to be a '53 with the curved shift lever, or can be referred to as a transition tractor just before the WD-45 came out. Mine has this same carb, and im guessing his is also a transition tractor.

Well it is different then any one of the 3 I have on the 3 running ones I have but then I do also know they do at times change things for one year to the next

Many early WDs had Zenith carbs but most later WDs had the Marvel-Schebler TSX-159 carb and most of the WD-45s had the larger M/S TSX-464 carb.
The Carb in Will's picture appears to be the typical M/S TSX-159.

Good news! I went out and took the carb off my tractor yesterday, brought it back to my "workbench", and stripped it apart. Used an entire can of spray carb cleaner and some other stuff, soaked it overnight, came out this morning and found that the drain plug was "stuffed" with crap. Cleaned it out with a small pick, then rooted out the main brass thingy in the middle (it was packed with crap, too). Cleaned the main and idle jets, and the rest of it, yadda yadda...

Anyway, let it set for the rest of the day, then tonight (after it was dry), I bolted it back on, hooked it back up, and [u:04d83d8fe3]the tractor fired up and stayed running on the first time[/u:04d83d8fe3]! WHOO!

[b:04d83d8fe3]Now, the next item of business... How do I set my carb?[/b:04d83d8fe3]

I've got it running [i:04d83d8fe3]fairly well[/i:04d83d8fe3], but what is the proper method for tuning the idle screw and the main jet screws? I just tinkered with the main jet as it was running until it sounded decent to my ear, and the throttle was nicely responsive, but it may be running a bit faster than it was before (of course, that may be because it is also cleaner than before).

Idle you screw it all the way in then out 1.5 turns and leave it. Main jet there are a few way to do it. One is screw it in all the way then turn it back out 2 turns and try the tractor out. If it has the power you think it should and runs and starts good leave it. If not open it up till you get black smoke then turn it back in till the smoke stops

Instructions

Try again

Thank you, stu (ON) and old, I will try your techniques to hone my tractor in later this week when I get back out to the farm.

Right now, this is a short video of what it sounds like...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bU9ZqeV37_Y

It sounds 'okay', but I think it isn't quite dialed in right...