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rear crank seal

G

glenn veillon

Member
my 1957 wd 45 has an oil leak at rear of engine i just replaced oil pan gasket so i assume it is the rear main seal that is leaking. anyone know how big a job it is to replace. i'm thinking of tackling myself?? any ideas
 
I have the same problem with my D17.I am looking for info on how to split the tractor.I am going to tackle it this weekend.I will let you know how it goes.
 
The rear of the crankshaft has a two piece seal. One piece fits into a grove in the block and the second fits into the rear main bearing cap. By removing just the oil pan from underneath, you’ll be able to replace the seal in the bearing cap. Removing and replacing the top seal may be difficult with the crankshaft in place. You may be able to remove the old one but getting the new one worked around the crankshaft and in place without jamming it would be very difficult. If you’re trying to replace the seal without removing to engine, you may have to settle for just replacing the bottom half of the seal.
 
Thanks for the info Matt.Someone told me there is a cover on the back of the block that might be leaking-is that possible?What is the torque on the main bearing cap?Maybe I will try just doing the seal in the bearing cap.
 
JoeB, you heard correctly about the cover on the back of the block. The upper seal actually fits into that cover. The problem is you can’t get the cover off without taking the flywheel off and you can’t take the flywheel off unless you take the engine out. Chances are the cover isn’t leaking, the seal is. As for the torque specs on the main bearing caps, my manual says 85 foot lbs.
 

There used to be a tool available to install that upper seal half..
It was like a wire with a coiled end that you screwed the end of the seal into and inserted the other end of the wire where the seal was to end up..
As you pulled the seal, you rotate the crank at the same time and the weal would turn into place..
I always like to put a small mark in the rear main, to relieve pressure on the back-side of the Main..reducing the amount of oil getting to the seal.
Always be sure the Drain-Back passage is Open in that rear Main Cap..
Ron..
 
Matt-Do you know-can I just split the tractor to get the flywheel off.Seems like that may be easier than taking the engine out.Thanks again for your help
 
On a WD-45 you have to remove the engine. The bell housing supports the rear of the engine and a piece of angle bolted to the bottom of the frame rails supports the front. The engine doesn't actually bolt to the frame rails. You can't split it to get at the rear main seal. It's really not that hard to remove the engine. The worst part is you have to take the steering shaft loose at the U-joint and the pins are sometimes hard to remove.
 
I'm pulling the engine out of my wd45 this weekend. I'm replacing the flywheel ring gear. I also have an oil leak near the rear of the engine. once I get the engine out I plan on looking into what kind of project it will be to replace the main bearings. I'll post here and let you all know what I've learned.
 
yes you have to split the tractor remove flywheel.. after you have removed the oil pan remove rear bearing cap and the top seal retainer on back of block..the new seal has to be glued in with 3m 847 adhesive.. 1st off glue the seal in the top retainer housing and bearing cap and install on block.. wait 24hrs allowing the glue to dry..then remove them and oil the felt seals..make sure you have the paper F seals that go under the main bearing cap or it can leak..if you put them in dry the crank will eat the felt seal up.. I bought a aftermarket rear main seal and wound up ordering one from the dealer..aftermarket one just did'nt look right.. I'm so glad I did, dealer seal is much thicker.. any questions just email me [email protected]
 
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