Wd-45 still stalling out

Another Saturday with the old girl. I think I have followed everyone's suggestions. Pulled the sediment bowl and cleaned the filter. Drained the carburetor for 5 minutes and checked for crap. Cleaned the fuel line from sediment bowl to carburetor. I told the carburetor off and cleaned it out. Started her up. She seem to be running good. Took my propane torch and ran it around the manifold. No increase in engine speed. Let her run for 15 -20 minutes. I thought everything was back to normal. Then, I tried to move some snow. Was working okay for a short time and then here we go again with her cutting out. When I pulled the carburetor off I checked and it was manufactured in 6/54. Do you think this is the problem and that I need to replace it?
 
I agree with the other guy. I would run it till it started to give you problems and then when it does stop and check you spark and also see how hot the coil is. If it is to hot to hold then your coil is going bad and will cause a problem like you have
 
Think I"ve seen your post before. My wd would start and run and quit. Turned out to be stuff in the tank that would get into the intake part of the valve on the sediment bowl. Took the tank off and cleaned many times and findly fixed it with a piece of brake line to extend the intake up about 1/2 inch. Read this in many posts on this sight also.
 
I changed all mine to electronic no more problems,got it from Genesse Products,was able to convert to 12 volt at the same time I have it in my WD s and my 340 IH simplest thing I ever done,also went with the flame thrower coil,they start and run even below 0 temp.
 

So, it sounds like it runs pretty well with NO load on it..??

Have you put NEW plugs in it to be sure they cannot be fouled..?
You are SURE no plug-wires are crossed..??
(I know, but I had to ask)...

Can you get it to make black smoke by opening the power (fuel) screw at the bottom of the carb..without a load..?? Should be able too..

If not, that passage is plugged ( or restricted) and needs cleaned..get to it by removing the main fuel jet.
Are you SURE the float is set correctly..?

Can you leave a timing light attached and operating, so you can SEE if the ignition is quitting..?
These can be real tough..!! Could even be an Ignition switch or corroded connection...

Hope you can narrow it down soon..!!

Ron..
 
The electronic ignition module I used on my gas burners is "The Ignitor". They're made by Gennesse Products. I know nnalert has them along with the Flamethrower coil. Those modules work great. I took advantage of the extra voltage availble by opening the plug gaps to .045 like many factory electronic ignition engines are. Starting idling and running are much improved over the original points.
Those modules are very sensitive to coil resistance. A 6V coil will not have enough resistance and will fry the module in short order. That's why I recommend using their coil just to be sure of compatibility. You should be able to get the module for about $80 and the coil for $40.
 
Tried this. I changed the Plugs, Points, and Condenser. The condenser screw was rusted. I put some PB Blaster on it and still could not get it out. I broke the the bracket off. Still unable to get the screw out. So, I just laid the condenser inside the distributor. Then tried to start. I was able to have her turn over, but she would not start. So now what did I mess-up !!
 

Well, you may as well take the breaker-plate out of the distributor and do a real good job of removing that screw and re-conditioning all the screws, so that you won't have trouble getting them loose in the future..
Either re-condition them, or replace them and put a sparing amount of lube on all threads..
That condenser have a GOOD connection to the Distributor Plate AND the Points..
Any connection such as the one you had will lead to a Non-Starting condition...
Without the Condenser, the Ignition will positively NOT give you any spark that will start the engine..
Maybe you should spend a few minutes and look at your screw-drivers..re-condition the tips on a few and set them aside for "Ignition Only" use..

Ron..
 

I am glad he will..

A "Breaker-Points" type ignition or "Magneto" both Must be kept clean, DRY and properly maintained, or they will Fail...

Keep us posted on how things go..

Ron.
 

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