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New addition to AC stable and WD flywheel/starting question

F

farmerwannabe

Member
Hi guys. Hope the new year is a good one for everyone. I"m in the process of trading a Farmall H with loader that needs some TLC for an Allis B with front AC plow and rear 1-bottom plow. I like the Farmalls just fine, but I"m becoming more and more an Allis guy.
Just bought a WD with an Allis front loader and rear blade. Runs great and looks pretty decent. Has good tires on it all around. Should be a nice tractor for both using the loader and as a back-up to the WD-45 when it"s baling time.
The only real issue with the WD is I think there"s some teeth missing on the flywheel. Once in a great while (according to the person I bought it from) it will not start without the tractor being moved some so the starter can engage the flywheel. How hard of a job will this repair be? I"ve seen just the outer ring with the teeth for sale, but don"t know much of anything about flywheels? Thanks for your help, as always.

Ended up with a pretty usable little collection of ACs: WD-45, WD, B, B-112 (with snow plow mounted right now)
 
Pull engine from tractor. Pull flywheel from engine. Use punch to drive starter ring from flywheel. Buy new ring gear. Heat ring gear in oven so it will expand to start it on the flywheel. You can do this with a torch BUT DO NOT heat any part of the ring to red. Once ring is started on flywheel use punch to fully set to where the other one was. There should be a shoulder. then reverse above.

Kent
 
You have to pull the engine to do that job. Not to ad to do after the engine is out. Put the flywheel in the freezer over night and then in the morning set the new ring gear in the oven at 500 degrees and when the over says it is up to heat pull the flywheel out and then drop the ring gear on. Walk away form it for an hour or so and then it will be time to install it back on the engine
 
Kent has it right, but, if money is tight, you can punch off the old one, move it about 45 degrees, and the worn spots won't line up with where the starter catches.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. Sounds like quite a time-consuming job, but not TOO expensive. Anything else that could use attention while the engine is out? It has new bearings .09 oversize and new rings with about 50 hours of use on them. Thanks again for your help, as always.
 
Like the others say, it's more work than money. I have changed many ring gears. You can put the gear in the oven if your wife doesn't catch you, put it on the barbecue grill, or the way I do it is hang it on the screw for a bench vise and heat it with an acetylene torch. Like Kent says, no need to heat it red and it will fall in place. There's no need to put the flywheel in the freezer either. Just got to pull the engine. That's the kicker...
 
Be sure to look the clutch, throw out bearing pilot bearing and pressure plate over real good when you have it opened up. Sure is a good idea to fix/replace those parts when you are in there since you have to pull them any how. Also mark the pressure plate so you put it back in the same spot as it was if you do not replace it or it can cause you major problems because it is set in that spot and if turned any can wear things funny
 
It isn't that hard to pull the engine. You want to disconect the steering shaft at the U jount beside the engine and slide it up outof the way so the engine can move forward and then up without hitting it. There is a pin holding the U jount to the shaft. This is the hardest part of pulling the engine. Also don't forget the two capscrews that hold the radiator to the frame are not too long. If you put long ones back you will screw them into the bottom of the radiator. Just look at the situation and you will see what I mean. It isn't a big deal if you know about it. I have pulled an engine without disconnecting the steering shaft, but I wouldn't want to try and get it back in and lined up that way. It would even be worth blocking up the tractor and taking off the right frame rail to gain access to the U joint. This isn't hard either if you drain the hydraulic oil enough so it won't run out of the belt pully hole.
 
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