wd45 cutout switch

finally got the generator charging. needed a good ground. Generator has a cutout switch, not a regulator has originally thought. The co charges until i rev up the motor, then it kicks out. What will cause the points to close to keep the bat charges? Seems the points remain closed until the motor is reved up to near half throttle. it is charging at about 20-25 amps. John T-your guidelines on trouble shooting where right on. Thanks so much

If a Cutout Relay (Bat wire to ammeter then battery, GEN wire to gennys ARM post) is wired correct and working, its an open circuit UNTIL the gennys voltage exceeds that of the battery at which time it latches shut/closed so the gennys output can get to and charge the battery. However when the tractor is shut down (or low idle) that relay opens so the battery dont reverse discharge through the genny to ground......

The Genny PLUS the CO need a good ground to work. Likewise the Low High Charge light switch needs a good ground because thats where the gennys FLD post goes to get its ground.

What you describe sounds backwards but maybe Im just not reading it correct. To be safe I recommend to POLARIZE a genny prior to start up. If the ammeter is wired correct to match the tractors polarity, with the tractor not running if you turn on lights or ignition it should swing to - discharge but then when running at fast RPM if the genny is good it will swing over to + charge. Yours do that?????? Most 6 volt tractors w0ere originall Pos ground you know

Youre welcome

John T

the light switch c/o has been bypassed. All there is is the gen and the c/o switch mounted on the genny. Would I be better off putting a 12 volt regulator on and get rid of the c/o altogether?
Mark

Where is the gennys FLD post wired??????? On the old Cutout systems it was wired to the Low High Charge light switch. For it to charge the genys FLD post MUST have a ground. Theres no prob with a CO mounted on the genny but you still gotta ground the FLD post SOMEWHERE SOMEHOW. If its always dead grounded the battery may overcharge which is why the light switch had BOTH Low and High charge settings.

Either the cutout (with Low High light switch to set charge) or conversion to a VR will work, teh VR probablby better

John T

The genny field wire is not hooked to the light switch. Which post does it hook up to? Not sure if the 3 way switch works, but it would be worth a try.

Thanks

Sorry, I dont have any switches or AC wiring diagrams handy so I cant answer that. If theres a blank spare terminal thats NOT for controlling the lights THATS PROBABLY IT assuming you have the correct switch i.e. one that has a LOW Charge and a High Charge and for Lights ON positions like the originals used on tractors with cutout relays and combination Low High charge and light switch controllers.

If theres an extra terminal and if its the right??? switch, an ohm meter on the terminal that wires to FLD on the genny would read like near 0 ohms to frame ground in High charge and around 2 to 4 ohms in Low charge.

To make her charge you need EITHER a correct light switch that has a good frame ground and its genny terminal wired to the gennys FLD post OR ELSE get a full fledged 3 terminal (BAT FLD GEN/ARM) Voltage Regulator correctly wired and toss the old cutout. Of course, if you simply attach the gennys FLD post to ground she will charge if all else and the genny is good but if you ran it that way (which is like High charge if a switch were used) a longggggggg time with no lights on you could potentially overcharge the battery

John T

put a voltage regulator on today, with a new ammeter, and so far so good. I guess the vr kicks in has needed to regulate the voltage.

Mark