Need advise on D17

I've had Fords all my "tractor life", but am seriously looking at a D17 Series I with an add-on 3pt. hitch. Everything works, metal straight as it can be, hydraulics are fine, just needs a little TLC. For those AC experts out there, please give me the low-down on the differences (other than cosmetic) between the Series I, II, III & IV. Problems with the Series I, etc. Tractor is priced low (based on comparisons), includes 6ft bush hog & 6ft grader blade, delivered. Seems like a good deal. Please advise.

The series 1 and 2 did have a few small tranny problems and if used wrong will/can jump out of a couple of the gears so be sure you check that out real good. Also the hyds on them are not live so when you push the clutch down you loose hyds. The 3 point on it will also cause you problems because you are a ford man they do not like to stay where you want them or at least that is how all the ones I have had where

Old is right about the gears. Some had the problem, some didn't.

The hold position on my D17 will hold all day with a load. Depends on how much use they have had. Mine is a Series II diesel and is a great tractor. Series I and II differed only in decals and maybe light placement.

Series four had a factory 3 point with two external cylinders - a much stronger arrangement. I think some series III had a factory 3 point (may have been an option on some Series III) but it was probably different than Series IV.

PTO and hydraulics are live with the hand clutch, and stop with the foot clutch. If there are problems with the gears, or slipping out of gear, it is from abuse. Foot clutch should be used when shifting gears.

The D14 and D15 are the ones most noted for jumping out of gear. A D17 would really have to be thrashed to get it to where it jumped out of gear. The D17 is about as close to indestructable as any tractor made by anyone.

I would have to agree on the indestructibility. I've got a series I that just won't quit, no matter what issues it develops along the way. VERY reliable. Too bad they don't build many machines like that today.

Christopher

Mydad farmed with a series 1 D17 and pound for pound it was about the toughest tractor I"ve ever operated. NEVER any tranny problems or any others for that matter; a real brute. Only drawback was that it had quite a taste for gas. That tractor was almost indestructable.

Mr. Bob

I purchased a series I about two years ago. Best money I ever spent. I farm about 40 acres with it. It pulls haybine, rake, baler, plow, disc, brush hog and occasionally gets a real work out giving hay rides. I havent had a single problem with it and everyhting works as advertised. It is thirsty on gas though. But all in all I would rather pay a little extra for gas than have a broke down unreliable tractor. You wont regret having one.

Series I & II had lights on the hood cowl. Differences were in grill color & appearance & decal/hood plates as noted. They all had separate hydraulic & power director fluid compartments and had band & drum only brakes. At SN24001 I believe they changed from the bypass oil filter system to full flow. That's a plus. Both were Snap Coupler only and 3500 psi high pressure/low volume "live" hydraulics usually with only a single acting remote unless retrofitted with special valves. If power steering equipped, they the pump was mounted & driven off the governor housing (might be wrong there).

At Series III the headlights moved to the fenders, the hood got the long cream decals. The hydraulic and power director compartments were combined and a hydraulic oil filter added. Brakes were upgraded to band actuated disc brakes. Still Snap Coupler only and high pressure hydraulics. Power steering ran via a pump on the left side above the generator off the front pulley.

Series IV upgraded to independent standard (2200 psi) two way independent hydraulics using a hydraulic pump in the belt pulley location driven off the flywheel via a hollow quill shaft. One or two 2-way remotes were available. HD factory CAT two 3 point hitch optional over the standard snap coupler. Rear work-light moved to the back of the left fender from behind the seat in Series III.

I grew up on a Series III and Dad later added Series IV that I still own.

Mike

The serial # is 18587, has the metal (aluminum?) hood plate with black letters. Sounds like a late 59, Series I. I think it will do the job nicely. Take delivery Friday. Thanks guys.
One more question-
One of the rear rims is suspect, probably will need replaced at some point soon. I cant seem to find any for sale. Any help?

Hey guys, there"s a D17 on sale on ebay
D17

I just patched both of my rear rims on my D17. Not really that tough to do. My rear tires were pretty much worn out and weather cracked really bad. I had a tire shop dismount the old tires since I can't justify nor do I want to buy the tire tools to do it myself. The $50 spent on having the old tires removed for me was money well spent. (Frustration factor)
I got some "repair panels" cut from another rim where it was still good. If you are good with a cutting torch, it's easy to cut the rusted area out. I'm not very good with a cutting torch, so I used a cutoff wheel that fit in my circular saw. (Skill Saw) I cut the wheel to fit the patch panels and welded them in. They turned out pretty well. If you are looking for them, they can be seen. One thing that makes them harder to see is after I welded the patch panels in, I flipped the wheel over and drilled the valve stem hole on the opposite side 180 degrees from the original. Last I knew new wheels were about $300 ea. Not counting elbow grease (I have more time than $), I have about $20 in repairing both wheels.